I've got a '92 Isuzu Rodeo, 3.1 V-6 5-speed, 10-bolt GM rearend. Rearend died on me today, and I have heard that the Chevy S-10 rearend would work. Can anyone confirm this? I see S-10s everywhere, parts are cheap, and I've already got a line on an '86 or '87 S-10 with a dead 2.8, good rearend. Your assistance is much appreciated.

I would say probably, but why are you messing with another 10-bolt?

why not pick up a Dana44 from a 94-97 Rodeo... its a bolt in swap too, many have gone that route before. There are some significant benefits to having the D44 over the 10-bolt.

-Rob

Thanks for the reply. My Isuzu is my daily driver, and as of right now, the only vehicle running in the household. I am currently driving it with the rear driveshaft removed from it, and the front hubs locked. I am just looking for the easiest and quickest solution to get the truck back up to 100% again, and S-10s are plentiful around here.

So what exactly is wrong with it that you can continue to drive in that configuration? Obvisouly, everything this is still spinning regardless of power going to the yoke or not.

One of your challenges with the Chevy 10-bolt swap is locating a Chevy with a matching gear ratio. Isuzu typically used much numerically higher gears than their american counterparts.

-Rob

Rearend makes a crunching sound now, and with the driveshaft removed, you can turn the pinion yoke almost half a turn. Non-matching gear ratio is not a real concern for me as I usually don't use 4wd with my truck.....just looking to get the truck back up to 100%. If I have 1 more drivetrain related failure with this truck, we are officially screwed, 'cause I don't have another vehicle that is roadworthy or legal yet. I have a Ford Taurus wagon, but I am waiting on the title, and my wife wrecked her '98 Plymouth Breeze 3 weeks ago, and the truck is all I have.

Just get a dana 44 it will bolt right in and you will have the right gear ratio and it won't be a 10 bolt you can probably pick one up for about $200.

The S10 10 bolts are 5 lug probably have diffrent spring and shock mounts.

So I think the Dana 44 is a Cheaper and more reliable option.

The other option is an Isuzu 12-bolt. This has been done before. The only real issue is the emergency brake cables and the need to have the driveshaft be the right length (I don't remember whether it needs to be shortened or lengthened).

Look for a D44 out of a Rodeo, its a direct bolt in replacement if you find one with drum brakes (2wd 4cyl models are the best choice), is significantly stronger and can be swapped out in less 2 hours, I've done it, so if I can do it, you can too. Oh yeah, and the gears matched.

Dan

I did the 12-Bolt Swap. The advantage for me was that I went from a 4.30 to a 4.56 ratio because I did the front third and the rear end and I got disk brakes in the rear. I wouldn't really call this a drop in swap though. As Jim mentioned, I had to play around with the E-Brake cables. You will also want to find a rear end with matching tone ring. Otherwise your Rear ABS will be disabled. Not that it was really that helpful anyway.

Last but not least I also did the one-peice drive shaft as my carrier bearing went around the same time.

Matt

3 times I could of bought a D44 rear from a rodeo for $250.
At 2 diff salvage yards.
Ask a yard.