I need to remove the oil pan to clean out the remants of the timing chain guide. Whats the best way to lower the front differential to gain clearance? Also what shouldI use to seal the pan since it dosen't have gasket? I have some Permatx Ultrablack and Ultrablue sealant. Will these work?
BTW: 1994 4x4 with 22re.

I used the black on my 85 also do you have a lift on your truck? If so I think you can drop the pan without the diff. I know on my stock 85 though I got the pan out without moving anything.

No lift. It dosen't look like there is enough clearance to get the pan out without lowering it. Especially with the independent front suspension.

'85 is solid axle = nothing below the oil pan.
'94 is IFS = stuff below the oil pan.

Should be two bolts to the rear and 1 bolt to the front. You might be able to just remove the two rear bolts and let the diff pivot down for additional working room. If not, remove the front bolt and use a floor jack to lower it.

I used the Toyota black FIPG (Form In Place Gaset) on my pan.

Thanks I'll try that. Where do you get the FIPG? Toyota dealer? Anywhere else?

I bought the FIPG at a toyota parts dealer. Supposedly the "Right Stuff" works well, too. The key is to follow the FIPG instructions, apply it, let it set for the prescibed time before installing the pan. I've had no leaks in mine since putting it on 6 years ago.

getting the oil pan off is a pia.

some people drop the diff entirely...others unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine adn tranny as high as it will go before hitting the firewall. if you do a search for +22RE +front +diff +drop, you'll get the details.

here is what i did:

1. drain oil from diff.

2. put a floor jack under it.

3. unbolt the nuts that hold the diff to the cv axles. the bolts are pressed in and difficult to remove. i did not remove them

4. remove the three differential bolts and nuts (one horizontally mounted at the front to the diff and two vertically mounted on either side of the diff).

5. lower the floor jack to lower the diff. it will not come all the way out because of the pressed in bolts holding it to the CVs. just lower it as low as it will go.

6. unbolt one end of the steering damper and let it hang down.

7. separate the steering relay rod from the idler arm and let the steering linkage hang down.

8. undo the oil pan bolts and let it drop as far as it will.

9. snake your arm up in there and unbolt the oil strainer from the block. (two bolts near the front where the tube feeds into the oil pump and two bolts back by the strainer itself, iirc.)

10. let the strainer drop down into the pan and then pull the pan out through the front (where the steering linkage would normally be).

i tried to get the pan to go out backwards so i would not have to undo the steering linkage, but i could not get it to squeeze past the tranny bell housing.

putting it back in is a little tricky as you have to put the FIPG/RTV on the oil pan, then put the strainer in the pan, then slide the pan back in and under the block, then bolt the oil strainer in place without messing up the FIPG bead.

there is a gasket on the end of the oil strainer tube where it mates with the block. may want to have a new one on hand in case you mess up the old one.

i also needed to replace the three diff mounting bolts as they were pretty rusted.

remove all the mounting on the diff and leave the axles bolted. then just rotoe the diff downward with the pinion towards the ground

Stan,

If you have to remove the pan or change out a cv, you can remove the bolts that hold the cv's on by hitting them with a 2-3lb sledge. About 3 smacks with the sledge and out they are out.

maybe in california it works that way... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

just kidding...thanks for the tip. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

i actually did bang on them a bit...a few of them are pretty well rusted in place, though.

i like pittsburgh...sure wish it weren't in the road salt belt, though...