Ok guys, for those of you who have gotten hard core into taking your rigs apart, I guess this is who I should direct the question to. I've got two 96' Rodeos and need a bit of advise. My first vehicle has been in a couple of minor accidents and well, with insurance companies not wanting to pay for appropriate vehicle repairs and their inflated damage estimates to justify claiming a lower cost total of the vehicle, sufice it to say, I am going to have to scrap my beloved first Rodeo. Anyway, I retained salvage, as I have lots of things on the vehicle I want to keep. Seeing as I've spent a lot of time maintaining it and keeping parts and such, I bought a second one with a slightly faulty engine, but better other options. 4x4, manual, pristeen engine bay and interior. It has some minor fender and bumper damage, but nothing I can't replace with the parts I already have. To get to the point here, I got the new rig for about 750 plus another hundred for gas and towing to my house from where I bought it. As I bought the vehicle from North Carolina, I noticed that there is a bit of rust on the underside. My frame is in great condition on my old rig. As I want to build a great looking rig, and I hate the sight of rust, is it cheaper to try and scrape and sand a rusted frame, or would it be more effective to pull my old, yet unrusted and undamaged frame and strap it on the new one. As I have nothing but time to do this since I have a third daily driver now, is it worth trying to pull everything and swap bodies, etc. to my old rig. Would there be an issue with titles in doind something like this? My new rig has a clean title and my old one is salvage. I'd rather not have to deal with the hassle not to mention devalue of having an inspected title in rebuilding my new Rodeo. Thanks for your feedback guys. Keep wheeling! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I would say swap the frame.I am doing that on my project as my frame is completely rotted from the inside.The guy that had it never flushed out the frame , and with the buildup of mud in there , it just stayed damp.Thats the major problem with the box style frames we have , they can rust pretty fast.While you have the body off , if you plan on doing a body lift , thats the time to add one <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I am also doing complete new brake and fuel lines while it is all apart , and sandblasting the good frame I have.

I've got the exact same problem. Had trouble getting it to crank over, turned out to be a fried ECU Relay, but when I dropped the tank to look at the fuel pump, I spent 20 minutes just chiseling out the dried mud and dirt clumps to get to the bolts. I am afraid of what I'll find if I get a power sprayer up under that bad boy. I see rust all over and I know that in the mountain areas they salt the roads which is obviously rust fuel. As to the extent of the damage, hard to say, just thought that while I'm building it up I'd ask the experts.

Here's another thought! What do you think about getting the frame rino lined? Worth it? That stuff is pretty sick. I imagine it would make the frame practically rust proof.

What do you think about getting the frame rino lined?

There are better linings than Rhino, but they are still not what you are looking for. Besides, they are not really for "rustproofing", but more for protecting surfaces that see lots of abuse, like truck beds.

You would be better off with something that is intended to be frame paint. POR-15 makes some really good products and there are some really nice industrial paints out there that would serve the purpose.

Good Luck,
Michael

When I redo my frame , after I sandblast it , there is a product at the local marine shop that stops rust , and protects it from rusting again.It doesn't have to be a perfect cleanup job for this to work , it actualy bonds to rust also , and then when it dries it is a primer coating , almost black in color.The name of it eludes me right now , but its not cheap stuff.I am getting it at a discount , like most of the stuff I get local(helps to know everyone <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> )but even then it is going to cost me 115 for just under half a gallon.Because this stuff is made for marine applications , it is good for at least 5 years before you might want to give it another coat , but if you coat or paint it overtop of this coating , your good for 15+ years of smooth sailing before it would even begin to get surface rust again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

When I start taking the body off my frame now , I will post some pictures , its pretty scary.There are big holes now where the rotted parts have just fallen out , cracks in the frame itself , mostly in the back end where the frames are prone to rust the most.When I first got it , you couldn't tell , the frame looked ok , it did have one rust hole which I was going to get fixed.It was when the guy looked at it really good he pointed out it was rotting and said it wouldn't last a year.He was right <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> But I have a spare frame that is good and solid , some minimal surface rust which is coming off , and then its getting sandblasted , that rust proofing stuff on , then rubberized or maybe the ashphalt style undercoating.Also I am going to look into that wax stuff they put inside box frames , so that nothing will get stuck in there again and it will last forever that way. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

When I remember what that marine stuff is called , I will post it for everyones information.I believe it had blue in the name , but am not 100% sure about that.You can also talk to any local marine shop , and I'm sure they would have something similar , or know where to get it.Oh , by the way , because I live on an island , this stuff is also salt water resistant <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> so for places that use salt on roads , this would be the perfect stuff as it doesn't break down very fast.

I think it isn't even worth talking about until you get under your new truck and look at the extent of the damage. You might be suprised that it is not so bad.

Looking rusty is a pretty vague way to describe it. Power wash it and take a hammer and hit it on little sections on joints and welds.

I would just hate to see you start an undertaking like that for little gain. It would be a very involved project. Not to mention slight differences if you have different type transmissions.

Your truck is based on the VIN of your frame. At least in MASS it is. That's why you can build a sandrail out of a VW Bug chassis with no body and fiberglass fenders and call it a VW bug.

Depending on the hassle of getting a reconstructed title, you should also weigh that in when you make up your mind.

Chris has hit the nail on the head. Swapping frames is not impossible, but it is a HUGE undertaking with the possibility of very minor benifits.

First, as he said, you really need to assess the current condition. Remember, you are working with a 10 year old vehicle. Some degree of surface rust is to be expected. True rot, that is where you run into problems. If it is within normal limits, then spend your money on something else for the rig.

Second, you really need to balance your time and money for such a project with selling what you have and putting that money towards a vehicle that is more sound. Yes, we all have emotional attachments to our rigs, but there is a point where the effort into some projects is just not worth it. Remember, again, you are considering this for a vehicle that is 10 years old.

Finally, did I mention the age of the vehicle? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Michael

then rubberized or maybe the asphalt style undercoating. Also I am going to look into that wax stuff they put inside box frames , so that nothing will get stuck in there again and it will last forever that way.

Don't. Just don't. Prep the frame. Paint the frame and then take the best care of it you can. Rinse it often and touch up scratches if you are really concerned about it.

Adding a layer that is not chemically bonded to the metal will just invite more rust. Undercoating will trap moisture, and in your case, salt too. In addition, it makes for working on your rig a real PITA. Filling the frame will have problems too. You are better off keeping it clean and allowing it to dry, than giving it a manner in which to just promote rust.

Good Luck,
Michael

In every state I've been in, the title is to the VIN. I've use the frame VIN for titleing many vehicles. In this case, all you want is a good frame. The rest of the parts can come from anywhere.

If you want something really cool, have the frame galvinized. Just be sure that your suspension is setup the way you want it before it's dipped. You don't want to have to grind it off and reweld after it's dipped.

Next best, IMHO, UV protected POR-15. It's tough stuff, too. For the hollow sections, tie string or wire to a large shop rag, dip it in the paint, then pull the string through the tube. Do it a few times, and you'll get a good coat inside the box. I like Hammerite, too. It's pretty tough.

While you have the body off, put undercoating on it. I have used Kool Patch, by Koolseal, with GREAT results. I will not use any other thing for undercoating. Just don't mess with brushes, rollers, or nothing. You'll want to use disposable gloves, as it's like thick pudding.

Hope this helps