on a 22R, .75 means it's .75mm over, which equals roughly .030" over <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> they are commonly punched .040 and .060 over, you'll be fine.

a lot of wiggling front to back might not be a good thing, though. could mean the wristpin bushings could be wearing out and eventually causing a top end knock. a lot of times the pistons will be a little wiggly though.

Thanks for schoolin' me on the 22R piston measurement. Real happy to find that .75 is in mm and I'm only about .030 over. Late last night Johnny was scraping while we were relaxing and saw the .75 stamp. We were thinking it meant .075 over and a new block was in my future. My budget is tight so this was not good for the truck and me. I don't like not being able to drive my most fuel efficient ride.

Since the pistons are sloppy were gonna drop the lower end and micrometer everything. I'm gonna have to sell my T-bird to keep Big Red and want it to get what it needs to keep rollin' for a long time. Thanks everyone for their help and guidance of my trucks life force.

might want to inspect the timing chain/guides closely while your there.

I got a really cool timing set on ebay from http://www.engnbldr.com that included a drivers side steel guide<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />. I found it listed on an ebay sale and the price was better than the local parts store. I also got a head gasket set with head bolts there too.

This afternoon we cleaned the bores real good and squirted a little 5W-30 down the bores. As a result they seem to tighten up a bit. So after turning the crank somemore and some final wigglin' we decided the bottom end was OK and gonna get some more miles out of it.

i am getting the same thihngs from him!

engnbldr inhabits these forums, i've got 2 engines that are more engnbldr than toyota now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

great guy to deal with too!

as far as the wiggly pistons, if you just want to re-ring the engine i'd suggest at least having the rods rebushed. if it were me, i'd just rebuild it and be done with it though.

If re-ringing the engine, honing the bores is mandatory in order for the new rings to seat. Might be some cases of miracles happening, but last I checked, it wasnt possible to inbed cast iron rings into a cylinder wall unless there was something there for them to cut into...ie: honing cross-hatch.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

I saw on another post that engnbldr has complete crank kits for about $200<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />. For that price + rings (maybe pistons) we can maybe afford to do the bottom end. Pulling the block out and paying the machine shop to do all the bottom end work was going to possibly cost me more $$$ and wasn't gonna fit our budget. Now we can tear it down and plastigauge it. If it needs replacing like I think it might then we can afford it.

If we need it installing a new crank will be nice <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Rings and maybe pistons aren't too much more about another $150. Between me and my friends helping me out we got a telescope, micrometer and a piston ring compressor. Just gotta pickup a cylinder bore and hone too which shouldn't cost to much more.

One snag though. I was told we will have to pull the block because the crank won't clear the axle to come out of the block. I've got about 2" of lift. Is it easy to get the crank out of the block with the block still in the truck or will this be a PITA?

The axel won't be your limiting factor here. Crank is connected to the transmission. You will have to take out the transmission to take out the crank. If you do take out the transmission, then you will have to support the back of the engine. By then, is easier to take out the block.

the crank is a heavy SOB so i wouldn't like to try and drop it from the bottom <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> probably close to 80lbs of forged steel goodness.

odds are unless you have a rod knock or your engine is really worn out, you probably don't need to have the crank machined.