I used to have the clicky starter problem. I cleaned all battery contacts and put on new clamps. It's better now but there is a delay before the starter kicks over.

It seems to be a common problem I was wondering if anyone has done the zook fix (wire in a relay and get power straight from the battery, instead of through the key-switch) on a montero and if it is a similiar problem to begin with? zook

I don't know about a "zook fix", but yes, I have added an additional relay switch and Bob Shaw has. After burning up two starter solenoid switches I suspected low voltage was the problem. I was told by an automotive electrical rebuilder that the Bosch solenoid switches are prone to failure due to low applied voltage. There are about a dozen electrical connections in the circuit from the battery through the ignition switch and on to the starter solenoid switch, which to me is a problem waiting to happen and over time it will. I tested my solenoid feed and got various readings that ranged from full battery voltage down to as low as 8.5v - not good. I suspected the ignition switch and replaced only the electrical part of the switch (about $20), then added in a standard automotive solenoid switch that is triggered by key-switched voltage, but when triggered throws power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid switch. Since making the modification I've had zero problems. If I have a problem now, it's more likely to be with the added relay which is easy to replace, costs only $8 and it's available at any auto parts store. Here's a picture of where and what I mounted:

I like the Ford-style relay - it will not blow with low voltage like the Bosch unit and if it does, there's less work and money to replace it - it makes for a good way to jump/bump the engine too... like an installed remote starter switch. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

excellent! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

this is exactly what I had in mind. By zook I meant suzuki samarai, they seem to have the same problem and there are pre-fab kits that go for about $12 on ebay. But your setup looks better.

Is this similiar to what you did?

"A Ford Solenoid Switch (#SS581) can be used, and bought for less than $20. It has two terminals on top, and a terminal on each side. It should have a little attachment plate with a hole in it that attaches to the right hand back valve cover stud with a nut.
Trace the wires from the starter motor solenoid to the ignition. There are two of them and may be partially wrapped in a loom. One is black in color. The other is black and red and larger in thickness. The black wire should be left as it is. The black and red wire should be cut just above the valve cover, where it bolts down. On mine, it is about 4 inches from a connector on the ignition side. Crimp a round connector onto the end of the black and red wire from the starter solenoid to fit over the terminal on the right side (back) of the switch. Tighten it down with a washer and nut.
The upper piece of the red and black wire needs a round connector crimped on it, and is attached to the left (front) of the two terminals on top of the Ford Solenoid switch, and tightened down with a washer and nut. The terminal next to it is not used.
Cut a 24 inch length of wire, the same thickness as the black and red wire. Crimp a round connector onto both ends. The one end attaches to the positive terminal of the battery, and the other end attaches to the left side (front) of the Ford Solenoid switch. Hope I havenÆt missed anything. Start the car. " anon write-up 1991 VW

No, it's a variation of that, but our trucks should be wired a little differently:

Disconnect the battery. Remove the small feed wire that runs from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Cut off the connector leaving enough wire to be able to splice it onto another wire later. Splice the cut end of the wire (the one you just cut) coming from the ignition switch and run the extended wire up to the small trigger terminal on the new solenoid. Run a wire from the battery (+) to one of the larger side posts on the new solenoid. From the other large post of the new solenoid run a wire back down and splice it into the connector that triggers the starter solenoid. Neaten up the wiring, reconnect your battery and you're readu to go.

All wiring connections should be crimped, soldered and covered with shrink tube - the kind with the hot melt adhesive inside so they'll be weatherproof. For splices, push or cut the inner metal tube out of the plastic butt connector sleeve and use just the metal part so you can solder it.... same on the ring connectors - pull off the plastic and use just the metal... after crimping and soldering you'll heat the pre-applied shrink tubing which will do a lot better job than the plastic covers. I find the best way to solder them is with a butane torch - be sure to use resin core electrical solder - not the acid core plumbing variety. Wire size isn't terribly critical - I'd choose one size larger than the OE wire coming from the key switch to the starter but I have forgotten what size it is.

The above instructions assume a case grounded relay. Case grounded and isolated are both made. If you get a 4-terminal (like the one in the picture) it's ok - you only need to use one of the small trigger terminals as long as you mount the solenoid on a grounded point like the fender - as you can see, I made a stainless steel bracket and stacked it on top of the power steering reservoir mount.

I'd also suggest testing your key switch for proper voltage - cycle the key switch several times to see several readings. You can do it before or after you install the new relay - for before: disconnect the wire coming from the key switch at the starter solenoid and probe the connector while someone turns and holds the key in the "START" position - for after: disconnect the trigger wire to the new solenoid relay and have someone do the same with the ignition switch while you read voltage at the wire end. If you don't get full battery voltage you have a wiring problem or an ignition switch problem. The electrical part of the ignition switch is an easy fix.

You can find the heat shrink tubing with adhesive at any Boater's World, E&B Marine or West Marine... they have good connector terminals and wire as well. It's a little pricier than at an auto store, but I like the quality much better.

Let us know how it works.

Frank