I have been having a re-occuring exhaust flange leak for the last few months. I can't seem to keep the bolts to stay tight, and I'm getting tired of replacing the two circular gaskets every time I pull it apart to try something new. Has anyone else had this problem with their 22re? If so, how did you fix it? I've tried replacing the studs and nuts with new oem ones and of course used loc-tite, but it still hasn't done much good. Someone suggested that my problem was tightening them with the weather so cold, and that they come loose once the engine heats up. So maybe re-tightening after the engine is hot? I dunno. Thanks for any help.

Just a tip on the thread locker for that application. Guess what you use to get thread locking compounds to release? You guessed it, heat! So Loctite on an exhaust bolt is pretty much useless. On my header, I used stainless steel bolts, nuts and lock washers (you could also use crimped lock nuts) and it stays nice and tight. I use anti-sieze compound on the threads to prevent galling.

i really like to use a lock washer on all my exhaust apps. on my header i use a plain washer, then a lock washer, then a standard nut and things stay nice and tight. a stover nut would work well too.

Do you have the clamp and bracket that bolts to the block and pipe somewhere downstream from the flange? It keeps the pipe from shaking and working loose. I do not know if the 22r uses the same type nuts that the 3.0 uses, they are a steel locking type nut that is squished egg shaped on one end.

So one can buy OEM studs for the downpipe? Mine were buggered up last time I had it apart. Do the old ones just press out, or is something else required to remove them?

My two donut gaskets were replaced about 4 years ago and they started leaking last year, even though I've got the downpipe bracketed securely to the bellhousing. So I guess new studs and lock nuts would be the next thing for me to try.

stainless is no cure for rusty flange bolts.
when the stainless is heat cycled that far, it will gall when you try to unscrew it, then you have to torch or zip off the bolts. cutting stainless is not fun.

the real fix for this problem is to havea muffler shop add a braided steel flexpipe after the ball conneciton. toyota never did this with the trucks, so guess where all the engine movement is absorbed in the exhasut system? the ball joint.

Yes from the dealer.

No they are threaded into the manifold, PJ Blaster is your friend!!!!

PJ Blaster is the stuff , that is the best invention yet . It has save me mant hours with a torch or saw .

That is why you need to use high-temp antisieze compound with stainless bolts. I had my first set gall on me, but since running antisieze, have had mine on and off half a dozen times with no problems.



I did this between my header and cat, works well.

I used the ultimate solution. Stage8 fastener. No way they could ever come off.

http://home.att.net/~benmlee/stage8/stage8.htm

Even with locking fasteners, those round gaskets tend to get compacted over time, then they leak again. You have to re-tighten new ones once the engine warms up and cools down again. I would check tightness a week latter. Check again a month latter, then 6 month etc. That is the only solution I have come up with so far without also going to braided tube.