Well, I have 26 mi on my Amigo rebuilt. And IÆm having problems;

After it warms up to normal running temp. And you let off the throttle; it idles down, sputters, and almost dies. Also there seams to be a hesitation between 2k and 2500 RPM while driving.
Also, when I drove it home (the first high speed run) it seamed to be lacking power. I could hardly get up to 60mph. I really had to rev it, to get up to speed (above 3700 RPM before I shifted)

I thought it might be a clogged fuel filter so I changed it today. It did seam to add a bit of power(still not as much as i would have expected) but the idle issue was still there.

Any thoughts? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

anyone

timing belt not timed right? off a tooth will affect power.

Ya know what's most difficult about this one is that we know practically everything on that engine is NEW !!!

Did you ever run that ground braid from the valve cover to the back of the head ????? Just curious...

On to your problem at hand.

Yer absolutely certain that you've got the vacuum lines plumbed right ??? Particularly on the EGR circuit ???

What's the manifold vacuum doing during the period from cold start to warm-up to "closed loop" ?

It's pretty easy to swap the EGR circuit and the CANISTER PURGE circuit when re-plumbing vacuum lines. Make sure you didn't do that.

There are two vacuum ports on the bottom of the throttle body, are you certain that the one toward the rear of the engine is running down to the blue vacuum switch, then up to the backpressure transducer ? And, the other is going down to the TEE that splits and feeds vacuum to the VSV's on the inner fender ?

Did you re-check the ignition timing ?

What do the plugs look like ? Probably not been runnin' long enough to tell much from them though...

I'm just pluggin' for ideas here...

Ya IÆll check the vacuum system again. But I think I had it all figured out.

I was thinking it might be the injectors or the fuel pump??? Those are the only things I didnÆt change out.

And ya IÆll check the timing again. ItÆs possible the belt loosed up (cuz itÆs new) or something???

The part about "after Warm up" has me thinking (as above) about all the "closed loop" and temp-switched stuff...
... o2 Sensor happy?
... PCV valve in the right way round (mine wasn't)
... What kind of vacuum do you get at idle? (any odd pops through the intake?)

Sad to say that I'm kinda thinking along the one-tooth-off somewhere thing...

Well I did reuse the original o2 sensors. But wouldnÆt that be giving me problems all the time, even before it warms up?

I havenÆt checked the vacuum pressure. I would imagine there is a tool for this.

I do think I have all the vacuum lines run correctly.

As for crank to cam timing, I think I have it right. I know the crank is lined up at TDC cuz I pulled a spark plug and had a look. But I guess itÆs possible that the cam is off.

Dose anyone know where the lobs on the the cam should be when itÆs at TDC compression for #1?

Hey Steve, have you checked the "Flux Capacitor"?
You may need to feed the rat more cheese so he turns that wheel faster also eh? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rodent.gif" alt="" /> No really that engine looks great. Now we need to get working on the Troop so we can get back to wheelin like we used to. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I'll be drivin' through next weekend so let me know if you need any help with anything. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The o2 sensors would only come on line after warmup (they won't even have any output until they're over 600*F) & it's not so uncommon for the up-stream o2 sensors to be come contaminated (internally from uncured silicones, or externally from grease, anti freeze or other debris).

Checking the vacuum should give some insight to the condition of the cam timing (low or erratic vacuum will indicate an inappropriate intake valve timing)... Checking compression figures may also be a good place to start (low across the board can also indicate cam issues)...

I'm not 100% behind the O2 sensor being bad. I'm pretty sure there would be a CEL if it was. It would need to be pretty bad to affect driveability as Steve describes.

I'm tending to think more along lines of some swapped vac lines. If he swapped the ones between the FPR and the Charcoal canister... (Steve, see yer PM)... that could possibly (probably?) cause his symptoms.

Steve, yes, for measuring the manifold vacuum, you would need a vacuum gauge. Not overly expensive, but see if you can borrow one from someone first. It _is_ a useful tool, but unless yer needing it all the time, might not be worth buying one (maybe $25 or so). I think you might be better off spending the bucks on a dash mounted gauge, then you can constantly monitor it. And, believe it or not, a dash mounted gauge can help increase your gas mileage! When you see that needle hit zero every time you jump on the gas, you begin to realize that you could accelerate a little less! (mine has increased my gas mileage about .3 MPG! from about 17.1 MPG to 17.4 MPG, measured over 600 mile span... Big whoop... but it was FREE!)

Hope you get it sussed!