To re-torque or not to re-torque. That is this question. Have a 1990 3.0 6G72 SOHC Montero. Just replaced both heads with rebuilt & resurfaced ones. Used graphite head gaskets and TTY new head bolts. Chilton and Haynes don't mention re-torquing. But a so called dealers mechanic manual on a CD says to re-torque after 1st initial warm-up and cooldown cycle. Also could bolts be bottoming out before actually clamping to engine since heads were shaved?? ..thanks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Welcome!

If you were using either the factory or Fel-Pro Perma-Torque gasket I'd say a re-torque wasn't needed, but I don't know what gasket you have. As for head bolts, the factory ones are not TTY. That said, a re-torque is like chicken soup - it can't hurt and might be a good idea if you don't know the manufacturer's recommendation for the parts you used.



Yes, but why ask now? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> They could bottom - not so much of an actual bottom (though possible) as bind in heat-caked oil residue that affects torque values - though I found mine to need additional clearance for proper torque value to be applied. If you didn't use a bottoming tap (not just a regular tap) and measure clamping range when you installed the heads perhaps you should consider doing it instead of a retorque.... it's a tough call and you won't know if you should have done it until you REALLY know you should have done it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Also, original head bolt torque was 72lb-ft... later revised to 80lb-ft. hot or cold.

Oh - throw away the Chilton's and Haynes - get a factory manual - it's not without error, but it's a lot better than anything else. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Good luck,
Frank

Gaskets are from ITM Components. An online order via Partsdinasaur.com (maybe not such a good idea but-oh well) I would say they are graphite. Same color and grey powder on my fingers. No instructions or recommendations or specifications or even suggestions came with head gasket set. Just lots of extra parts. I did chase the threads pretty good using correct bottoming 12X1.25 tap, maxed down. Air compressed holes, lightly lubed bolt threads and torqued to 80 ft lbs in several stages. (caught that revision) I'm hearing Torque To Yield bolts can't be re-torqued once they have been torqued to yield. Stretchability and elasticity can only be achieved once? If disturbed again thier holding strength becomes variable at best.? I'm thinking I should remove the bolts anyway one at a time, double up on the washers and return them to 80 lbs. An experienced auto mechanic I'm NOT. Just driven. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Agree 100% on those manuals. Chiltons used to be fairly informational. But now you get just the basic steps less any detail whatsoever. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

IF you did use TTY bolts (the fel-pro and other aftermarket books say that they are, but LIE!)
then a retorque is specifically forbidden, because it's a reuse of the bolts.
But it's 99 and 44/100% certain that they're not- so a retorque is possible. But usually the GASKET determines this- if it's needed, it should say in the gasket instructions.
fwiw,
t

You're probably right about the bolts. They looked identical to my old ones. Even had that used flatened thread uneven sheen look. So, boltwise, I'll assume they're not TTYs and go ahead and retorque em. With the same graphite (?) gasket but double washer to compensate for possible excess head metal loss due to heads being over surfaced and bolts maybe bottoming out.
Has anyone ever seen TTY bolts?? Seems like they should be identifiable in some way. Different alloys,colors or?

If you still have the packaging information I would suggest a call to ITM to ask what instructions you should follow for the gaskets you have... here's their contact info:

ITM Engine Components

Were the head bolts part of an ITM rebuild package? If so, note that ITM info shows they have both standard and TTY head bolts available. They specifically say that TTY bolts should be used only once.

If you can't get good, reliable information I would leave the head bolts alone and NOT re-torque, particularly since you chased the threads and torqued to 80lb-ft - unless you felt a bind as you approached torque value.

Frank

So I contacted ITM and they said graphite gaskets can be retorqued and TTY bolts can also be retorqued. This is fine
with me, and I'll do just that. However it makes one wonder about do's and don't s by some of these parts manufacturer's
claims.

But did you ask them if they "should be"?

Frank

Skidell, pardon the threadjack, how much were the heads shaved? Any guesstimate on CR bump?