<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Linky <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Balljoints spacers are not very helpful without a sort of "steering connections spacers". With the balljoints, we can do some tricks like BJ flips or aftermarket control arms. But we cannot do anything extreme becouse of the steering links. At least, this is true for the 2 gen Rodeos. The steering links are already of pretty high angle on my truck.

The steering links on my Rodeo are connected "under" to the knuckles. Ideal conversion would be an "over" system.

So, a complete perfect IFS kit would be:

1. Diff drop bracket.
2. BJ spacer and/or new control arm.
3. Steering knuckles conversion kit.

Ill go ahead and make it clear to everyone, as some people may be thinking: "Why not just flip them over?"

The knuckles on our trucks have a tapered shaft and a tapered hole. To flip them, we would need a copletely different aftermarket knuckle that flips the taper over so that the TRE can fit in from the top.
If it were me, i dont think i would want a 1" long spacer. Seems like too much to me.
-J <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

that's right. The conversion kit would have to deal with this tapering.

No need for a completely different knuckle. The stock knuckles can be machined out to accept a taper from top... just need to find a larger TRE to base the taper off of.

That having been said, a couple of people over the years have tried moving the tie rods to the top of the knuckles and it left their trucks far from road worthy. Something about the flip changes the steering geometry enough to cause ill effects.

Judging simply from my experience with RC... I would probably say it adds alot of bump steer.

In just about any application outside of radio-control, it's definitely a bad thing.

George Reiswig (sp?) tried this years ago and the it make the truck basically undriveable. Randii would have more details.

Many moons ago, I flipped my tie rod on my early Bronco (seen in Zu Zoo pics of years past). I did it by tapering out the top, and putting a large washer on the bottom. It worked well in all applications, including all Moab could throw at it.

Shortly after the conversion, George (a good friend of over 16 years) and I lookd at his situation. After we scratech our heads for a while, the plan was made to put his rod ends on top, then George went to work on it.

The test drive proved that it was not controllable at any speed. This shook us up for quite a while as the whole thing looked great on paper.

If you look at the system in 2D then it's easy. However, in 3D we find that caster and camber changes as the knuckle travels through it's range of motion. As the knuckle moved up and down the relationship changed, becasue it was farther from the lower pivot point. The end result was the need for new steering knuckles.

It was at this point where we quit talking about ideas to increase travel. Concentrating on rear articulation helps a lot as it makes up for the IFS short comings. This is why the solid axle swap is needed for any front travel over a few inches.

Note: After traveling with one of these vehicles for over 100,000 miles, and more adventures then you can shake a stick at, the actual placement of the rod-end was not an issue.

BTW, that '90 Amigo is for sale.

Great explanation, thanks.



yeah, you are right. Also, a front locker would help to the IFS travel problem.