Since the first production set of Independent4x IFS tie rods currently rest under my 97 rodeo, I thought I would write up the install. I forgot my camera so no pictures yet, but here is a link to the development thread which does have pictures of the tie rods themselves.

Independent 4x HD tie rod thread link


Installing tie rods is fairly straightforward, and the Indy4x HD tie rods are no exception. A novice mechanic should have no problem installing them. However, an alignment is needed after installation, and this requires a trip to the shop.

On to the good stuff! The box contains:

2 assembled tie rods (adjuster and ends)
4 washers
4 castle nuts
4 cotter pins
4 zerk fittings

Items needed:

1. Grease Gun with grease
2. Pliers
3. PB blaster or equivalent penetrating oil spray
4. Sockets and breaker bar
5. Small hammer
6. Mini sledge hammer
7. Torque Wrench

Preparation:

The only preparation needed for this project is to spray the two castle nuts securing each tie rod with penetrating oil one day prior. Repeat this step several times if the nuts are especially rusty. Dont forget to admire the beefiness of your hardware. Eat a steak in honor of the beefiness.



Installation: Removal of old tie-rods.

Each tie rod is secured by two castle nuts, one at each end.

1. Remove the cotter pins securing each castle nut by bending it straight, and hammering the pin out. If access to any of these is difficult, you can turn the steering wheel left or right to give yourself better access.

2. Remove each castle nut by using a breaker bar and ratchet (or an impact wrench if you have it).

3. Use the mini sledge to pound the tie rod ends out. First, whack whatever the tie rod end is inserted into (the steering link or spindle) five or six times to loosen things up in there. Then, whack the exposed threaded end (the one that you just unscrewed the castle nut from) with the sledge until it comes out. It may take some agressive pounding, as well as more whacks on the spindle or steering linkage to make it pop out. If you are planning on using the old tie rods for spares (for other people, you most likely won't break your new ones), be careful not to mar the threads with all the hammering. Protect them with a block of wood if this is the case.

Installation: Install new heavy duty tie rods.

1. Unpack the box contents, and thread a zerk fitting in each new tie rod end, tightening firmly.

2. Choose which new tie rod goes on which side, passenger or driver. The difference between the two is in the way the zerk fittings face. I found that when installed on the proper side, the zerk fittings are much more accessible to a grease gun. For most people, this will mean the zerk fitting on the steering linkage TRE zerk (Tie Rod End) needs to point down, and the spindle TRE zerk will face forward.

3. Press fit each tie rod in the same orientation as the old tie rod was installed. Don't forget to loosen the silver adjustor lock nuts so the TRE's can move freely. Use the new castle nuts provided to secure each tie rod, and tighten each to 73 ft/lbs using a torque wrench. Dont forget to put the washers on before the nuts.

4. Install the cotter pins provided in the kit. If the holes for the pins do not line up with the castle nuts, tighten the nuts until you can push the pin through. Bend one side of the pin up and the other down to secure the castle nut.

5. Repeat on other side.

6. After both HD tie rods are installed, admire the beefiness in-situ, and congratulate yourself. You might notice during your oogling session that your front wheels are pointed in odd directions. Make sure the steering wheel is straight, and get two large adjustable wrenches. Loosen the locknuts on each side of the adjustor, and turn the adjustor until the wheel looks straight. Retighten the adjustor locknuts. Do this on both sides, making sure the steering wheel stays straight. The point of this is to make your drive to the alignment shop as uneventful as possible. The steering will still be pretty messed up, but that's why we're getting the alignment, right?

7. Take to alignment shop, and ask for a discount because your tie rods are so, so, so easy to adjust.

8. Go wheeling and be confident that your tie rods are some seriously good beef stock. Enjoy!

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Looks like I'm going to have to start building a parts pile, so I can knock out the whole lift/tie-rod install in one shot so I don't have to pay for 2 alignments.

Really looking forward to purchasing a set of these. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

cool, cool.

i'd also add that the use of red Locktight threadlock is reccommended on the 4 jam nuts to prevent loosening with road vibration.

post some pics of them on the truck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Ok, here are some pics. Check out the bling.




I was worried about clearance issues with the shock body because of how large these tie-rods are, but Matt assured me this wouldn't be a problem on the 96-97's. The shocks you see are Pro-Comp ES-3000's.
Steering all the way right:


Steering centered:



And now, the double bling shot. I hope they stay this color, makes my rodeo look like It has gold teeth.