Well ive had my T100 6 months now and even tho ive had to spend a good amount to fix some probs lately I still enjoy driving it.

But I have some questions and since no one I know has a T100 I figured I might ask here

1st........I had my clutch replaced about a month ago, it is much much better than before but still can be 'sticky' going into 1st.......should a new clutch be perfect with no probs or is there other things that can affect it?

2nd.......im fairly mechanically inclined but I have yet to get under my truck and lube zerks and check grease levels etc. What do I need to lube? Does a t100 even have zerks....?


3rd........I had the relay rod recall done at the same time I had the clutch replaced-a month ago. Now whenever i make a sharp turn, there is a metal grinding noise from the front end when its at maximum turn...when I stop turning then it stops and it doesnt make the noise any other time when driving.....do I need to lube something with that or ?


4th........what do you guys do for drink holders that like the 'big drinks' like me! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Ive spilt big gulps on the floor a couple times since the dinky drink holder doesnt do the job.

thanks for any replies
Russ

The only factory zerks are the 11 (6 on the rear and 5 on the front with the X-cab. Do a search there was a discussion on this) on the drive shafts. The ball joints have a screw in the hole but I replaced them with a zerks. Use 90 deg on the bottom ball joint and I used 45 degrees on the top. One side I faced forward and the other back so you don't have to crank the wheel to the locks twice to get to them. You can get aftermarket idler arms with zerks but factory isn't. Everything else is sealed. As far as the grinding it is most likely the steering stops. They look like smooth bolt heads and from the factory they had rubber caps on them to keep them from making noise at the locks. I just dab some chassis grease on them from time to time but you can buy the original covers. I guess they can come off pretty quickly.

not sure what you mean by sticky. If its a little hard to get into 1st from a stop, then either you need to adjust the pushrod on the clutch pedal out to give you a longer pedal throw, or your clutch pedal bracket is cracked. When mine cracked it was hard to get into 1st. See the sticky at the top of the forum for more info. Its easy to replace, only took me about an hour, dealer had the parts next day so the toyota wharehouse in my region stocks the parts.

ive had problems going into first on older toyota 5 speeds dues to a poorly turned/unturned flywheel, sometimes it needs to be done everytime just to get the clutch plate nice and flat on the flywheel...after turning the flywheel on my 89 4wd it did the trick, no problems into 1st...

This is a common problem. The bump stops are metal and you're getting the the grinding noise from them. Real easy fix--just take your finger and dip it in all-purpose grease and then coat the face of each bump stop. No more noise. I usually have to do mine at each oil change to keep the noise away.

Just to clarify, he means "steering stops" and not bump stops. He is correct that a little grease on them will quiet them down.

hupptoy

4th and finally (your other questions looke pretty well answered) Duct tape!

Run a turn of tape around the tcase shift (or some other anchor) and lay the roll on its side on the tranny hump. Voila, a better cupholder than Toyota could come up with.

Thanks for the imput guys.........I like the duck tape idea <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" /> might have to try that