I recently installed the 1.5" ball joint spacers this past week. I attempted to do ELRIPSTER's home grown alignment but I wasn't having much success. The caster seemed like it kept changing on me. I got it almost perfectly square, and then I'd go test drive it but couldn't get it to stay. So I figured since I was going to get the recall, I'd let Toyota get it right... guess not. I took my truck in today and had the relay recall accomplished. After they did that they attempted to align it, but couldn't quite get it. It is better than when it went in, but still not in spec's. Also pulls to the right now, when before it went in, it pulled to the left. The left caster is 0.6, and the right caster is -1.9 (way out), the range they're supposed to be in is 0.9 to 2.4. Also, cross caster is off at 2.5 when it's supposed to be -0.8 to 0.8. I asked the service tech if he thought something was bent or maybe a worn component, but he didn't think so. I also haven't found anything bent or badly worn. He said that it may be the lift, but I mentioned many people have done the same lift and still been able to get their trucks aligned. Why would Toyota have so much trouble aligning their own product unless something was bent that myself or the tech isn't seeing? I'm kinda at a loss of whether to try and align it again myself, or just deal with it and rotate the tires very frequently. I'd appreciate any insight into this and/or help fixing it. Sorry it's so long and thanks if you're still reading.

You might want to try a different alignment shop. Seems to be quite a bit of variation on how shops can handle alignment problems. Some just go by the book and if they can dial it in, give up. Others will work with what you have and make it good. My old VW had something that prevented aligning to spec and I found a shop that basically worked up an alignment that accomodated the problem and worked well.

Are the cam positions staying the same or are they moving with the caster? If the cams are moving, I'd say there might be stripped threads. If they are staying the same, I'd think something is broken.



I'm no expert, but having fiddled with this I can say that what worked best for me (from elripsters advice) was to set the rear cams pointed outward (horizontal) and the front pointed inward (horizontal). If nothing is bent, this should ensure caster is the same. From this point I adjusted the torsion bars (equal ammounts each side) to get closest to 90 degree camber. This assumes that you are willing to accept the height which best supports your alignment. Otherwise, you can move the cams equally from the base adjustment to get closer.

Also, based on recomendations on this board, I adjusted tow in by removing the wheels and clamping a straight edge to the brake rotors & measuring across. Using 1" narrower measurement in front than in rear on a centered 3' straight edge.

My alignment is probably not perfect, but it "feels" better than ever has.

alignment facts here

Being a tech that did nothing but alignments for years I would agree with this. My truck was never perfect after lifted. Wouldnt hit factory specs but it went straight and didnt chew tires. I worked with what I had and set it how it needed to be.

Try going to a shop that specializes in suspension and alignments. Usually they know what they are doing.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I may attempt dialing it in again myself. And then if I have trouble, find a shop like 94Krawler mentioned.

How's the camber and toe? Those are the most important adjustments.

The camber and toe are both within specs. How much will trying to adjust the caster change those if I attempt to?

As far as I know (I'm no expert) the only way to adjust the caster is by playing with the camber and toe.

There is now way on a toy to set caster and not change Camber or Toe.

Honest opinion setting anything but Toe in your driveway is a waste of time... Even setting Toe its going to be close at least but not perfect.

Adjusting the torsion bars will change camber; that's why you have to realign when you do it. I'm sure it also changes caster & toe, but if done evenly it shouldn't change cross camber, which is really the goal of the driveway alignment. If you set cross caster the same, and as long as something isn't bent, you should be able to get camber adjusted by torsion bar without cranking to oblivion or dropping it on the stops. Then set your toe & be done.



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