thats what i was thinking, ill be doing probably .120wall 1.5" tubing, and make it so it can be unbolted, ill retrofit my superlift skid plate which is pretty heavy duty steel. Its a bit long, but with maybe some C-channel at the radiator support it will work no problem...

finally took some photos




latest is my spare tire carrier, found the matching wheel on ebay for $44, tire is used 315/75/R16 from les schwab $50
looked long and hard for a 35 and 15 wheel but the 16" was the better bet.



the back is an inch higher than the front, hoping it will settle a bit and then ill take some preload out of the front.

So how much has it costed you for the kit, minues the 300m axles, if you dont mind?

too much, just got done fighting about it with the wife...might be for sale soon.

Nah i actually want to know <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />
On top of the 1800 or so for the a-arms and such, how much did the front shocks cost you?

greg

$1500 for arms from ORW, $1200 for shocks and coils, $200 for shock hoops, $700 for axles,

this thread has me thinking and thinking...

how difficult is the instal? how much is bolt on and how much welding and fab?

how does it ride?
and how about the rear? what mods have you done there? (edit...nevermind...except what you do for shocks)
size tires? and you kept your body lift?

and how about the glass fenders? what brand and how much flare?

sorry bout all the questions...i'm really close on doing an long travel kit...

hannemann for the fenders 5" buldge front and rear, talk to the owner he should cut a few hundred off if you buy the set , linky

rear im using Bilstein 5125 12" travel with the deaver pack and shackle, the shackles wouldnt fit without grinding down the hanger sleeve on the frame, they're designed for the mini post 89 trucks.

im running 35x12.50 BFG M/T, they required alot of cutting of the wheel well, more modification than i had planned for, the kit will fit better with a 2" body lift (which i kept) helps with shock hoop clearance at firewall.

Lots of welding very little bolts on, those parts which do bolts on require drilling something first, spindles had to be drilled to 3/4 inch, remove upper control arm cross shaft and press on supplied bushings took some time, i suggest burning out the old bushings,

to make it simple go with 33x12.50 tires and dont expect it to go together in a weekend,

have a press handy, welder, angle grinder, cut off wheels, and some friends.

ARB locker going in probably next weekend, buddy of hopefully can get a good deal on it with his account....

4Crawler body lift blocks are going in on Saturday to replace my old performance products 2" blocks on the cab...grade 8 hardware for the cab as well.

Anybody have any aftermarket motor mount experience??? which parts store and brand should i go after?

What's your goal for the motor mounts? More strength? You might try Rockstomper or others similar poly mounts.

Another cheap/free thing you can try is chaining the stock mounts. Roger B has some info. I've been doing that on the Runner, but my crawler still kinda overpowered them because it generates so much torque. I just put in a FROR t-case crossmember to control that though, so it shouldn't be a problem anymore.