Ok I went to install my gen II coils in my Gen I LWB, couldn't do it because the brake line was too short and I didn't have a spring compressor, I did get it to about 15.5" between the spring perches. So this raises several questions (since Im a cheap arse).

1) Will GenII coils really lift the rear of a GenI LWB or am I stupid to even try? I know budget lift was a GenI SWB but no one ever said if it works on a LWB. Anyone know or got the stock spring rates?

2) Has anyone tried doing the spring swap with the axel off camber? Like keep one shock connected and let the other side go to full droop, you would get more distance between perches and the brake line would not be as stessed, but would it work?

3) what kind of spring compressors do I need to take off the montero springs?

Basically I would pay to have it done, but im not positive that I would get any lift. If someone says they are almost positive I would get lift I would go get a compressor and do it myself but I need more info...

Help...

Here's an aftermarket coil spring install done by a former Gen II owner. Process is the same for putting gen II springs in a gen I LWB.

http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/valley_springs/

Ya read that already. Just wondering about the other things, I figure I would have to use a spring compressor after I tried tonight. But the other things, mainly will gen II springs lift a gen I LWB are my major concern.

I put mine up in the air. There's enough droop to put the springs in by hand. It's so easy it's scary.

You will need to think about where the coil ends go, as they only go in one way and will make noise otherwise.

I had a custom brake line made, about 6 inches longer than factory. Cost about $50 and made a huge difference in the way the truck stops. Or maybe that was the rear disk brakes installed at the same time, hard to tell.

Clay

Where did you get that line made? Mine would droop enough to do that but the brake line is too tight to drop the axel that much, and i didn't want to bleed the line when i could just get the compressor.

I had it made at a local hose maker place. I think it was United Rubber or something like that.

I sent in the old hose so they could compare it or use my old fittings, but they already knew what it was supposed to have.

Bleeding the rear brakes is painfully easy. Just take the brake reservoir cap off and make sure it's full. Then open the bleed screw on the rear axle.

BTW, if there are any black widow spiders living on the axle, they may try to attack the drops of brake fluid as they fall <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Anyway, watch for the air bubbles, and when there aren't anymore, tighten the screw, top off and cap the reservoir and try the pedal. If it is still spongy, repeat the procedure above.

It's a very easy, one man operation.

Clay

Ya I used to do hydraulic disc brakes on my bikes, and bled the discs on my car numerous times, just had no idea where to get that stuff made, and if im gonna disconnect the brake line i want to at least replace it for my trouble. i will try to look that place up. thanks

There should be a local place that can make a really nice hose for you. Mine is very custom, braided stainless with a clear blue plastic cover.



Clay

huh? i didnt have any problems with my brake lines at all. btw, you can buy a set of coil compressors at checker and then return them when your done... ive known several people that have done that. as for my set of compressors, i borrowed/stole them from my mechanically challanged buddy that got them for his jeep and they worked just fine. as for the lift, youll get about 1 1/2-2"'s of lift out of it on the lwb.

I just remembered that I have longer shocks on mine. That's probably what makes it so easy and also what was stretching the brake line.

Clay