Okay, I bought my rig some 5 months ago and bought it knowing the rear main was going, so no nasty surprise.

FYI: 83' 22r.

I'm not mechanically inclined at all, but I bought my rig partially to learn. I've done searching on pirate and here, and have read quotes of over $700! I've also heard it's do-able in the driveway. I think I'll choose the cheaper route.

My question: how long does it take to replace a rear main? I believe I have to drain the oil, drop the tranny/t-case (usually together, but if a jack don't reach then they can be seperated and carried out), remove the clutch, then replace the seal (being extremely careful to put it on evenly, and running oil around it to help it seal), and go in reverse, not forgetting to add oil after I'm done. I've heard it helps to be double jointed to get that tranny down, but I've also got a 2" body lift, so I'm hoping/assuming that make's things easier. Knowing all this, I am led to think it can be done in a day, especially if I bribe a friend with food. Maybe 6-8 hours?

I'm hoping to make this a Saturday job, and only be down a vehicle for a day, but if it takes longer, I can't exactly stall time either.

I *think* I can do this, I'm losing a quart a week (it wasn't that bad when we got it) and I don't like driving when I know something's wrong.

Thanks guys.

If this is your first time pulling a tranny, I doubt you will have it all done in one day. It is possible, but unlikely. It doesn't take much to slow you down, not having the right tool, a stuck bolt you can't break loose.

I did mine in a weekend plus when I changed the clutch. Seperating the tranny from the block was kinda a *****, as was lining it back up.

I'm not trying to discourage you from doing it yourself...you most definitey should. I'm just telling you to plan on it taking a little longer so you don't get into touble and stress out.

By the way, you should consider changing the clutch while your in there unless it's been done recently. You have already done all the labor at that point.

If your truck is leaking that much oil, you will/should change your clutch. It is going to be oil soaked. Along with the clutch change the pilot bearing and the throw-out bearing and have your flywheel resurfaced at an automotive machine shop. Good luck with your project it is quite an undertaking for one of your first big mechanical jobs. I hope you have some type of repair manual; you are going to need it when the small things pop up, like removing the shifters from the tranny and t-case. Try and find someone with a bit of knowledge to help and mentor you.

Its not all that difficult, just time consuming. You have a body lift so getting the top 2 tranny/block bolts shouldnt give you too much of a hassle. Id strongly recommend renting/buying/borrowing a tranny jack with a leveler, and doing this project on a flat smooth surface. A clutch alignment tool helps as well. And when you put it back together dont forget to loctite the bolts because they will back out on you.

My .02
JT

I second the tranny jack.... I didn't have one that is the reason it took me so long to get everything lined up. I think you can buy an adaptor for your floor jack from Northern tool or harbor freight...not sure if they are any good though. The leveling feature is key!

Also, as JT said getting those top tranny bolts should be easier with your lift, but you will probably still need plenty of extensions for your 1/2" ratchet to reach them.

Get the right tools, set aside enuf time and you can do it.

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it. Sorry for the late response, but I realized since my last post that (probably) my timing chain tensioners and/or guides have gone bad. Looks like my rig will be parked for a couple weeks anyways. I've made arrangements to borrow a vehcile, so I can still get to work.

Really appreciate it, helps my confidence.

Good day all....

It's quite possible the clutch will be just fine. with a leaky rear main, the oil slings out around the back side of the flywheel, not on the clutch & pressure plate side. with a leaking input shaft on the transmission, however, it can travel down the shaft and sling out onto the clutch & pressure plate, though.

at any rate, I'd have a clutch set on hand. anytime I'm going through all the work of pulling a transmission, I always consider replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing & pilot bearing.

don't go cheap on a clutch set, either -- they'll slip or just otherwise not lockup.

if you do decide to do the clutch, I also 2nd having the flywheel machined. some people say not to, but pulling a transmission is just too much work to skimp on this $40 machine shop job.

I was planning on replacing the clutch anyways. Figured it's old enough that a few more months of cluth isn't worth the time and energy to take it all down again. And yes, I'll be resurfacing the flywheel. Marlin Crawler is about 5 minutes from where I live, so I'll just run down there when it's time and have them do it.

Cheap clutch.... is napa cheap? If not I may be getting more than a resurfacing from MC.

Thanks again...

Lucky b*stard. Go with Marlin's kit, there is a reason why your oem clutch lasted so long, he'll give you something better! NAPA sucks, I've been burned so many times by them on bad parts I will never go there again, I replaced 5 water pumps on warranty within about 2,000 miles. Haven't had a problem with my oem spec WP yet(5K ago.) and I don't expect to.

yeah, I know, right? who cares about a warranty -- I want parts that I don't have to use the warranty on.