The next saga in my epic rebuild seems to be upon me. I was preparing to check cold valve clearances when I noticed that the no 1 intake valve isn't returning to the same height as the other intake valves. I kept everything at TDC during the install and all the valves seemed flush prior to torquing down the headstuds/rocker assembly. Is there any other possible explanation to the valve not returning other than its bent? I rapped on it with a rubber mallet and it came up a bit, but it is still not close to the rocker by a little more than 1/8th inch. Any ideas or do I "get" to tear this B down again? Thanks for all your help along the way.

>>>*It is possible for a valve to hang up in the guide but this is pretty rare if clearences were correct.

Usually when one appears down it is bent. It should not be if the cam and short block were in time when the head was snugged down, though. Plus if one is bent there is usually at least one more also bent.

I think I would pull the head to see what happened......*EB

I'm hoping its just hung up. Is it possible that the solvent the shop used to clean it when they decked it got into the seal/guide and dried it out? I guess I'll make sure all the other valves are fully returning. If they are, can I still try and start it to see if it will return? I thought I was almost done with this god-awful project. Seems I may be back at square one though. If I pull the head again, will I need a new gasket set? How much is a rebuilt head? Thank you all.

>>>*Solvent? Any idea what kind? I know some stripping agents like Sodium Metasilicate used in many hot aluminum cleaning booths or tanks will strip off all oil. Another not so well known problem is it loosens material that builds up in the ports, that can be pretty solid stuff and drop down. It might be between the valve and the seat holding the valve open.

The concern if a valve is bent is that it can break if started that way. Try flooding the stems with oil between the spring coils and work the valve by hand. They open fairly easily, there is only about 60# seat tension.

Perhaps it will free up? *If so, go buy a lottery ticket because you are on a roll....worth a try...*EB

THANK YOU! I know its not much, but its hope. This thing has been getting all over my nerves! I guess, even if I do have to pull the head, it won't be near the headache it was as I don't need to pull the timing cover or accessories. Thanks for the advice; the carbon deposit had crossed my mind...

OK, head's off. The valve was stuck open less than 1/4", which is not enough to introduce it rudely to the piston from what it appears. All other valves actuate properly, but this one is very hard to push in. I can bang it open with a mallet and back shut, but the valve spring will not seat it. To me this means bent as it won't freely move. Can I have just that valve/guide replaced? How hard would this be to do myself? If I do that, should I replace all valves/seals? I've never done head work, but it doesn't seem that hard. Are there valve seals included in the head gasket set from Toyota? It appears so. Also, can I reuse my head gasket after its been torqued (improperly thanks to a "friend")? Thank you for all your help. BTW, the second time is a LOT easier to pull the head when you know where the Japs have screwed with you

>>>*It is fairly easy to replace the valve, but I would first pull the spring and retainer to see why it is hanging up.
Odd to be bent in the stem, my thought would be that it was dropped or bumped while it was off, perhaps it fell over in the cleaning tank? (That NEVER happens to us in our shop...*LOL**...)

Best to let a machine shop do it if you haven't done it before and don't have the tooling, some fitting is normally required. I would just spring for a valve job, sounds like about $125 or so to me with parts.

I would not suggest reusing that head gasket, they are cheap anyway.....*EB

What do you mean by "fitting"? I'm going to get the spring compressor pliers and get the retainer/spring off and get the valve out. What is difficult about getting a new one back in? I'm not versed in this area. Should I take it back to the shop that cleaned/milled the head? Thanks.

AFAIK, they aren't all one size and they need to be "fitted" so there are the proper clearances......


EB, you may correct me now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The inside of the guides area knurled (kanoodled?).....they got them damn grooves machined in them to trap oil!! In the event the guide has to be replaced, the head casting must be heated up in order to "properly" remove and reinstall the new guide. Tolerances must be checked for clearance and of course the seat must be fitted to accept the valve and have it seal while maintaining spring height etc.

Lots of room to mess up when dealing with the valve guides. Last thing you want is to have to buy a new casting because you cracked yours using the "8lb. Hammer"! Unless of course you have the $$ in your budget- and if thats the case...say screw it and just pick up one of EBs assembled ready to bolt on Street RV heads like I do. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />