My venerable Raider vapor locked (I assume) on me last night for several hours. Nothing like being stuck in the Wal-Mart parking lot! It's had a problem like this since day 1, since before I rebuilt the motor (TWICE), and I suspect with the on going horrible mileage (~11 or 12 mpg) and occassional popping around 2k RPM, the carb is just not up to snuff.

I am thinking of going with a new Weber, either a 32/36 or what is being billed as a 34 DGEC (see link):

34 DGEC information

First, does anyone have any experience with the 34? It's billed as "The power of a 38/38 DGES and the Fuel Economy of the 32/36 DGEV" but I am always skeptical. I couldn't find anything on this site about it.

Next, how nuts is the conversion? Is switching to an electric fuel pump mandatory when going to a Weber carb? Are there and permanent modifications needed on the intake manifold, or anywhere else for that matter? I'd need to be able to put the stock carb back on for emissions testing next year, more than likely, so heavy mods are somewhat out of the question.

Finally, does anyone have any real or anecdotal information about HP / torque gains, impact on fuel economy, and the like?

Thanks!

Try searching for weber carb conversion. The very knowledgeable here say that if you are going to use your rig offroad, the weber will only dissappoint you and recommend the stock carb. If your only going to use your vehicle for getting to the ski resort, the weber may be for you. As far as the skill level, doesn't sound too hard based on the few who have posted up around here.
Rich

You do not want to switch back and forth between a Mikuni and Weber for emmissions. The vapor lock can be caused by a bad Bowl Vent Valve. The mikuni is heated by coolant from the radiator. When you turn off the truck the gas in the bowl likes to evaporate to the charcoal canister via the bowl vent valve. If it can't do this the gas goes into the engine causing hard starts and bad fuel economy.

Bottom line is the truck is 20 years old and carb needs attention. You can go hit or miss with a rebuilt from FCproducts for around $400 or the expert in Los Angeles will run about $500.

Before you do anything read the Carb section in the FAQ, sometimes it's not the carb but the sensors. Run some fuel system cleaner thru your next few tanks.

As far as HP or Torque <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Everyone who says they see a performance increase is comparing there worn out mikuni to a new weber. A carb does one thing only, mix fuel and air at 14 to one ratio. My rebuilt Mikuni will push my brick on wheels past 85 mph on 31's with pedal left over.

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