Hey guys/gals, I'm a little new to this forum - but have been browsing since Dec. I picked up an 88 4runner w/3.0v6 5spd and is basically stock (including the "saggy butt" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />)

my problem is that I know just enough about cars to get me in trouble. Replaced timing belt and water pump, plugs and cap/rotor and modded the intake with the 3 inch mandrel bent tube from MAF to TB. the cold air box is cut out for more air flow (around a 4" by 3" triangle). So.... when I accelerate hard the engine pings like crazy - especially up hill. Before I did any modding I noticed slight pinging but up hill only.
Now, I can't exactly remember what I set the timing to when I redid my cap but I seem to remember around 12deg or somewhere <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />
So.. what I ask is.... this isn't normal for the 3.0 is it? it kind of scares me a little and I don't want any major repair bills in the near future, or for that matter in the future at all!
Anyone have any hints for a newbie to the 4wheeling community?

AUSSiE

Your Timing is set too advanced. You need to retard the timing a few degrees. When you set the timing you need to short out the diagnostic connector to make sure you get the timing set correctly. Your mods just made your vehicle run even leaner than it already was. You could also have a knock sensor problem too.

so.. if i retard the timing it will make the pinging go away? - and lose power too? how do I find out if the knock sensor is at fault?

AUSSiE

>>>*Ignition timing (or spark lead) sets off the mixture ahead of time. The reason is it does take time for the fuel to burn, so a head start is required.

Too much head start and it pings, or even worse, detonates. Pinging sounds like a can of marbles in there, detonation is that loud noise and big cloud of smoke we don't want.

If the spark lead is too late, the fuel is still burning as it goes out the tailpipe which does nothing but waste it.

There is only one proper advance amount, no power can be gained by adding more than needed. This is a common mistake because a bit too much advance makes an engine feel nice and snappy running free.

But under load...??? less power.

Retarding slightly, in one degree movements until the engine just stops pinging is one way to find the right amount. But normally the factory setting will be correct in ALL cases assuming all else is normal.

Sorry for the short lecture, couldn't help myself...*LOL**...*EB

do you have a check engine light on?

hey, thanks guys....
No check engine light, but I will try retarding the timing a bit. When I do that do I need to do the jumper thing? Or is that just when using a timing light to set it?
One more thing.... since I bought the Runner the charge and brake light has been on constantly - I read about the brushes on the alternator and replaced them but lights are still on..... could that be part of a pinging problem?

AUSSiE

you just need to do the jumper to actually check it with a timing light. It's nice to know exactly where your timing is set at. I don't see how your charge or brake light being on would have anything to do with your pinging.

I just thought it might have something to do with the engine.... Remember.. I can get myself into trouble <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

You need to check the voltage at your battery to decide if you have an alternator problem or if the light is just stuck on. The voltage at the battery should be somewhere around 14 to 14.5 volts.

I don't have my DMM right now so that's gonna need to wait...but I heard on this or another board about adding more fuel to the mix if theres a lean condition, eg more air flow. is that right or am I just going nuts again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />
AUSSiE