A few weeks ago I heard the ticking. I felt that the tensioner/belt would last for a little bit, but I was wrong.

The inner ribs of my timing belt have basically been ripped off, leaving the inner belt smooth. When my crank turns over it just spins inside the belt without moving it. I have noticed that the inner cogs have been torn off in more than one part of the belt.

I have the thing torn down, but havent removed the belt or tensioner yet. I figure that the camshaft positions are not lined up with each other anymore, so i dont really know what to do. It's not as easy as lining up the marks on the belt now is it? I mean... if one of the camshafts is a full rotation off it wont really be lined up even if the marks are in the right spot, correct?

Could someone shed some light on the procedure that I need to use to get this thing back together? Please give me as many details as you can, as I really dont want to have to take it back apart! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Thanks!

The camshafts can not be off one full revolution,that's the good thing,but
the engine/crank can be off a full turn and that will be a bad thing.
Someone will chim in,if not I'll try to get by the garage tommorrow night and get my manuals.

any of the manuals will have the proper positions of the timeing marks(all 3) and will help you in determining TDC on the #1piston on the compression stroke.

Thanks for the info!

Anyone else?...I need to start on this thing in about an hour!



<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> Mr. T FTW

OK GET THE OLD BELT OFF AND OUT OF THE WAY AND THE FRT OF THE ENG CLEANED UP A BIT FROM THE OLD BELT PIECES, SO THAT THEY DON,T GET UNDER THE NEW BELT TEETH, ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT UNTILL THE KEY WAY ON THE CRANKSHAFT IS AT THE 3.0CLOCK POSITION, THERE IS A NOTCH ON THE LOWER GEAR TO LINE UP WITH THE MARK ON THE OIL PUMP HOUSING,THE SLASH MARK ON THE OUTSIDE EDGE IS WHAT GOES OVER TO 9.0CLOCK IT MUST BE DEAD ON, NOW FOR THE CAMS ROTATE THE DRIVER SIDE CAM SO THAT THE TIMING MARK ON THE CAM GEAR IS JUST BELOW THE 3.0 CLOCK SPOT ON THE PLATE BEHIND THE GEAR,THIS SPOT OR DOT IS JUST BELOW WHAT WOULD BE CALLED 3.O CLOCK ,NOW ROTATE THE RT BANK CAMSHAFT CLOCKWISE UNTILL THE TIMING MARK ON THE PULLEY IS JUST ABOVE THE 9,0CLOCK MARK, THE MARKS ARE USUALYY ESY TO FIND, NOW LACE THE NEW BELT ON STARTING AT THE CRANK SHAFT PULLEY AND GOING AROUND THE PULLEY ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE ENG UPAND ON THE INSIDE OF THE IDELER PULLEY UP OVER THE CAM GEAR AND DOWN AROUND THE WATER PUMP AND BACK UPTO THE RT SIDE PULLEY ALL THE WHILE KEEPING THE BELT JUST A BIT SNUG, DON,T PULL ON IT HARD OR YOU MAY ROLL THE CRANK A BIT, GO OVER THE PULLEY AND DOWN TO THE INSIDE OF THE TENSIONER PULLEY, NOW CHECK THE MARKS ON THE BELT THERE SHOULD BE 3 WHITE LINES ON THE BELT , YOU DON,T HAVE TO USE THEM THEY ARE THERE TO MAKE SURE YOU GET EVERYTHING LINED UP CORRECTLY, IF YOU STARTED WITH THE LINE WITH THE 5 WHITE DOTS ON THE 9.0CLOCK SIDE BOTH OF THE OTHER TWO LINES SHOULD LINE UP PERFECTLY,, NOW WITH A NEW TENSIONER PREFEREBLY, INSTALL THE NEW TENSIONER WITH THE TOP BOLT THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE BELT FIRST AND THEN ROTATE THE TENSIONER UP AGAINST THE BELT ,NOW IF ALL YOUR MARKS ARE LINED UP PULL THE HAIR PIN FROM THE TENSIONER, AND THE BELT WILL TENSION IT SELF , YOU SHOULD USE A NEW TENSIONER , NOW WITH ALL THIS DONE START IT UP AND SEE IF EVERYTHING SEEMS OK , IT SHOULD START RIGHT UP , IF EVERYTHING IS OK , PUT THE REST OF THE PARTS BACK ON AND YOU ARE DONE JUST KEEP YOUR HANDS AWAY FOR THE FRT OF THE ENG WITH THE CVRS OFF, AND BY THE WAY JUST BECAUSE THE BELT CAME APART AND YOUR ENG DIED IT WILL DO NO HARM TO INTERNAL PARTS SUCH AS VLVS OR WHATEVER THIS IS A NON INTERFERENCE ENG , GOOD LUCK AND NO2 CYL IS ALLMOST TO TDC READY TO FIRE JERRY

I've done three just following the directions whcih come with the Gates Belt/Kit. I use a mirror on a stick to make absolutely certain the three notches on the cams and crank are lined up. I'd encourge buying the Gates belt if you can as I bought a different brand which was a 1/2" or so off.

Depending on the mileage and your finances it is a good time to swap the water pump as well.

Ok....

I am sure that the marks on the crank/cams are lined up correctly, but the lines on the belt dont line up perfectly.

If both camshaft marks are lined up correctly, then the crankshaft mark is always off by 1 tooth no matter what I do. Ive tried and tried bu cant seem to get it on there any other way.

Wouldnt I want to go ahead and install the belt the way it is if I knew that the crank was in the correct position?

Maybe I'm missing something?!?!!?

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> Help the Fool!

EDIT:
I GOT IT!!!

Too bad I was letting myself get beat up over a half degree. I slightly clocked the camshaft sprockets just enought to get the belt moved over a notch... worked perfectly!

fired right up!!!!


THANKS GUYS!!

Cool. It isn't a tough project and thankfully even if you get it wrong the valves don't get bent. I got my first Trooper for free as it needed a timing belt and the owners did not think it was worth the investment. 20,000 miles later I'm commuting it to work every day.

Yep... just took me a little while because I was being cautious. Next time (if there ever is one) will be a lot faster.


Thanks again guys!

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> Sucka