Hmm, I'll have to watch for that when I try to top-up my AC. I bought a "Recharge kit for Dummies" at PepBoys that included a can of Castrol 134a and a hose/gauge. The instructions say to turn the can upside-down.

I assumed that the "L" cap in the AC valve meant low-pressure side.

7 Cans??????????????????????????????
check the gauge thats 5 too many.

Use the gauge or STOP filling the system when the bubbles are gone in the sight glass.

7 cans = new compressor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

The oz. on the refrigerant cans are indicative of weight, as with all gases. It's not a liquid except when under extreme pressure like in the can or in half the a/c circuit. The big tanks of 134/22/12 are not x gallons, they are x pounds.

The sight glass is actually pretty good. May have to clean it with a qtip and cleaner. But the bubbles are very visible when there is boiling in there. It's a lot easier to read than the Delco dot.

PS dude WD40 on the battery terminals is a bad idea because petroleum oils are dielectric.

Got it, thanks. Checked my system out yesterday - hetternhell here - no leaks. Put the recharger assy back on the low side and the presure was at about 65 psi. Supposed to be 25 - 45. A refrigeration guy I bumped into yesterday said the cycling of the compressor clutch can be caused by both low and high pressure. Another fella told me there is usually both a high and low pressure switch in the system - low to kill the compressor if there is not enough lubricant / fluid - high to prevent blowing out seals etc.

Soooo, to make a long story short - slowly bled off on the low side until I got to 35 psi, got 52 degree air now. Never messed with air before, so lessons learned. Hope the others watching this series of notes get the benefit I did. Good thing is my system took 65 psi w/o blowing up - good ol Toy engineering and manufacturing.

Thanks to all who helped. Bill

Yep, it is a dielectric. Just a touch though - not saying spray the thing like you were trying to loosen a bolt. All you need is the lightest coating you can provide. Another trick is when a spray can won't spray anymore, fully discharged, it still has quite a bit of liquid in it. Almost enough to cover the bottom of the can. Pry off the top of the can and you have pourable or brushable wd40. Need a drop or 2? A q-tip or a small brush does wonders.

Hey I'm glad you got your system corrected. 52F is OK for a hot humid day when you taking in outside air. It will always blow cooler if you switch to recirc. If you dont see anything in your sight glass this is a great sign. The system is designed to take a variance in pressure (on hotter days, pressure's higher)

Recirculating air brings me to another point, I hate how there is no pollen filter on the T100. I have car the same age and there is almost NO dirt/dust coating parts under the dash like on the T. I wonder if we can retrofit one?

Yeah electrical terminals arent smooth and it will prevent corrosion if you can seal it up with oil or grease. But there are conductive lubricants available just for this. I think for the best connections (lowest resistance and heat) clean them with Brasso or Gun-Strip and then apply the grease.

Appreciate the thoughts. Wish there was a filter as well but up here in upstate NY there is little need as the pollen thing is a pretty short time period. Dirt etc. is basically a non event except up in the hills by my camp. As to the anti-oxidation coatings - I have been fooling with cars since I was 13 - 47 years ago. Started out on flathead fords, straight eight buicks and v-12 caddys. Never seen anthing better than wd40 on battery terminals and I have virtually tried everything. The brass fittings on my wife's toy have lasted over 2 years after cleaning and they look as new as the day they were made. Hmmm.

Need some clarification on the sight glass. Mine show bubbles but will run to low 50's on hot (90) and humid (always) days. I dumped in some red dye leak indicator after bleeding the low side to nearly zero pressure and bumped up the pressure to about 40. No leaks and no change in temps, recirculated. Took it for a drive to let the radiator do its job and got to low 50's. Everything seems to cycle correctly, gets colder upon driving for a few minutes, radiator is clean, bubbles show, pressure at about 40. Any suggestions? Is this all I can expect? Dark blue truck adds to heat absorption.....