Unless I'm missing something, you have to pull the cams to get the head bolts out of the inner portion of the head. So I'll have to pull the cams on the new heads to get the inner bolts in place
You haven't missed any trick, that is how it is normally done, when the valves haven't already been shimmed in the head prior to install. You can get a short star(IIRC) socket in around the cam, to remove the head bolts, though if you are reusing the head it will be more difficult to remove the cam with the head off the block.
So I'm wondering, since I have the engine torn down this far, is there anything I might want to replace while I'm in there
Replace the Knock Sensor and Knock sensor wire, if you haven't come across the info, the knock sensor goes bad nopt lkong after having the heads off. Everyone recommends replacing both, since it is unknown which one actually causes the sensor to fail. You should also get the injectors cleaned, if done locally it is a one day process, shipping them out will take longer. Move the PVC valve out from under the intake manifold, this will make it easier to replace or clean it. When reinstalling the valve covers use an FIPG gasket material, for some reason the left side likes to leak.
I've debated headers, but the downside doesn't seem worth it. I don't need the extra work of fabbing up the crossover either.
I would reconsider headers, the new heads will be flowing more air, and the oem exhaust manifiolds are constricting with that x-over design. Also, that oem x-over pipe dumps all of the 1-3-5 exhaust in onto #6 before exiting the engine. IMO headers have been the best upgrade on my '90, and work well with the my other mods.
Headers will be far easier to install now with the heads off than later if you decided to add them. You could easilly fab up your own new x-over pipe using pre-bent exhaust tubing from a parts store, or have a shop build you one rather cheaply. However if you haven't budgeted for headers, you should figure about $6-700 more for headers and exhaust.