Has anyone figured out to successfully align front end so that larger tires(33's)on about 3" lifted torsion bars don't create the \/ appearance? It is wearing the hell out of the outerside of my mud tires. I've taken it to get realigned at Firestone(lifetime alignment) and they say they can't do any better and claim to have removed all the shims.

Is this something I just have to live with? If so, I'll start buying cheaper tires.

Did you "flip" the ball joints and put a spacer in them?

Bansil

Another option you can do , which I did is go with a diff drop from Joe darlington at Darlington Offroad.It drops your front diff down I believe an inch , andmakes your CV almost straight even cranking the torsion bars up 3".This makes it easier on your CV and also helps alittle with the alignment.When I tookmine in to get aligned , he said I had done a good job putting everything back together , he took out some shims onthe passenger side , and cranked the driver side tie rod twice and that was it.

I didn't do the ball joint flip as I had the Calmini suspenion lift , so I have the Upper control arms.I think once you crank the torsion bars , you can't get the alinment 100% perfect , but you should get it good enough so it doesn't wear out your fires too much faster than with no lift.

This makes it easier on your CV and also helps alittle with the alignment.

Dropping the front diff housing has absolutely no affect upon the alignment.

Most likely, you will have to crank the front end down a bit, plus moving the ball joints, to get it closer to spec. If you are that cranked, you are probably sitting on the droop stops anyway and need to drop it a little so it might handle a bit better on the road.

Good Luck,
Michael

I know each truck is different, however I have approxiately 3-4 inches of lift in the front. I also had very similiar problems with the alignment. After messing with it numerous times while on the alignment rack the only way we could get it to come even close to being within specs was to lift it even more (not possible rode on bumpstop then), or remove the spacers and balljoint flip.

My experience with the bj flip and spacer provide worse alignment however did provide more downtravel.

I never found a cure replaced every steering component and had 3 alignments done. over a 3 year period

Ball joint flip and spacer were done about 2 years ago. The DOR diff drop brackets were done several months ago.

John: MY troopers have aligned best w/ BK flip, no spacers, and only very little shimming. I think most shops put too thick of shims. Last time sears did mine, they had stacked about 4 shims and then declared trooper "not alignable". I told them to pull all of the shims except for the "dog bone" shaped one and one 1/8" thick one. It was just about perfect. Apparently, the shims were working opposite of desired effect.

Mark: are the shims viewable easily from underneath? Where do I find them. I don't think any of my shims are still in there as I recall the Firestone guy telling me they removed them. Could that be the problem? Also, do you think removing the ball joint spacer might help? Thanks.

John: The shims are between the upper ar arm fulcrum and the frame. Pic below shows where mine kept popping out during wheeling sessions. Sears was stacking shims since they "needed so many to get it aligned".. I had them removed and alignment was closer to stock.