Up and running post head replacement. I do have some timing questions as I have never fiddled w/ the timing before. I have little power at low rpm's, seems to pull ok in the mid range. Also, at idle it seems to diesel a bit (sputtery, etc.) I will not be able to put the light on it till this weekend but is this syptomatic of retarded timing?
Also, and perhaps more importantly; upon reinstalling the timing chain, the mark on the cam sprocket was more in the 12 o'clock position than the 11:30 position. Am I off a tooth? What will tell me if I am or am not?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Luke

Sounds about right:

I used that write up for the timing chain part <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />, however, I noticed alot of people say 11:30 position not 12...
I'll just get a light, short the jumper and see what happens. Hopefully I've got the distributor popped in the right position.
Now I gotta fix the temp sensor that is NOT working and rewire the sub-o2 sensor.. It's the 4-wire kind with a connector that melted on the pipe, anybody have the diagram so I can splice & solder that up correctly??

where's your distributor set -- is it maxxed out to one side or other of the adjusting range?

Yes right now its maxed out, maxed the opposite way and it wants to cut off... I've just got it set up by ear right now w/out the light.

Sounds like you stabbed the distributor in there 180 out from TDC. Lots of folks forget to check that before they go tearing it down if the chain hasn't failed.

If he has it 180? out, it would not run. He has it running, but the adjustment is maxed out. Try pulling the distributor and moving it one tooth, then reinstall.
Jeff

what was your timing set to last time you were able to put a light on it when you had the adjustment maxed out to one side?

yeah, definitely sounds like it's just the distributor.
if you're careful, you can even pop it out and rotate it back a tooth without going through the whole TDC alignment procedure.

give that a shot before you go about looking into the chain being installed incorrectly. I think that if you follow instructions within reason, it's kinda hard to mess that up, isn't it?

"Sub"-O2 sensor? How many are there?

Last weekend I was working on the O2 sensor (just before the cat) on my Uncle's truck (91, 22re, 4x4, 5sp). Whoever had worked on it last had routed the harness for the O2 sensor over the exhaust and it looked like one of the O2 sensor studs had melted through the plastic tubing and had melted into the black wire in the harness. When I cut the black wire to splice it I found that it was like a mini coaxle cable. It had a copper wire in the center, a layer of insulation, then a layer of woven wires that were silver, then the top layer of insulation. Just before the wire went into the connecting plug it tapered down and had some tape on it so it looked like the outer layer didn't go into the plug and was just there for shielding or something. Anyway, I spliced the center wire and pulled the woven layer over the splice and wrapped it with aluminum tape and covered it all with a shrink tube. Seems to be working so far.

Another thing I noticed, and this gets to the point of your question, is that the colors of the wires in the harness didn't match up with the wires coming out of the O2 sensor. Here's how they match up on either side of the plug on my truck...

O2 Sensor........Harness

Black...............Red Stripe
Black...............Blue Stripe
White..............Brown
Blue................Black

There are two separate black wires coming out of the O2 sensor.

Hope this helps.