Connor,

OK. If you read it now after you changed it, it doesn't read anything like that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I see now why everyone's come back the way they did.

I was responding to Drews attitude. I didn't mean anything by it. Just sounded like he was being an <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> and wanted to know where he got the idea he could get away with it when dealing with people who have professional experience with this sort of thing.

If I stepped in something I apologize. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

same here, sorry if ive upset anyone...<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

but i dont feel its fair to slap our wrists if he wont explain what gains and advantages he will get/ thinks he will get if we ask.

I doubt it pretty boring stuff. Sorry it took me so long to respond I don't check the board daily. But I can see how Aroused some of you got by my comments (yikes)Anyway we can discuss that later if necessary. As all of you certified professionals know, The Ign Coil generates the volts to create the spark. When I am pulling a load in hot weather my Monty seems to bog down and run weak. When I thought about it it seemed to run great cold but lousy hot. I remember good ole Mr B's auto shop in HS and thought maybe its my Ign Coil. So if my coil wasn't producing the necessary high volt spark maybe I could upgrade the coil. it was that simple. So I asked a question to the board who is very knowledgeable and here we are. By the way I wasn't trying to be a smart A.. I was just asking a question. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

D

Awesome, Im into HP Increse! lol

Thank You Sir. I wasnt trying to be a jerk. I just asked a Q. I thought the response was interesting and thought it might best be discussed off the board.

If you are having hot temp issues, there may be more then "upgrading" the coil to be looked at. Usually the bogging down in hotter temps is caused by more then one issue. Hot air going into the engine will definately cause a bog. Check out your SAS reed valve (that funny looking box attached by the coiled tube to your exhaust and your air cleaner. You should have suction if you pull the fat rubber hose off the air cleaner side. If you don't your SAS is on the way out. You can also have a clogged cat, if the passenger side floor gets really hot, you know you have an issue there. Also the cooling system could need a good cleaning, inside and out. These are just some basics off the top of my head.

I think what everyone is trying to say is that..

to need a "hotter" coil, you are going to need higher compression, or some sort of modifications to your motor. Of which not very many people have done.

Not going to have much effect on a stock motor.

On another note......

I've had bad luck with MSD coils. AND in fact if I installed an MSD anything on ANY customers vehicle, I always put the orig in the box, and in their trunk, or behind their seat. I had MORE than a few come back, and thank me for that.

I think I gave my old MSD away to Fhuzz

If you buy the MSD, I've got a Tornado you need to try...

I'm no 'lectron genius, but I think I understand ignition.

You want a strong hot spark to jump the plug gap. The coil supplies the voltage for this spark. There's lot's of ways to do this. MSD uses (mostly) a capacitor to allow more than one spark to increase the probability of ignition. IF the MSD provides higher spark voltage, AND you need extra spark voltage to provide an adequately high probability of ignition due to other factors, PLUS you need the multi-spark for same high probability (and you only need that if the engine timing you're using makes spark at a time when there's a local too-lean or too-rich region in the combustion chamber around the plug electrode, and multisparks might fire it off - late but better than not at all). Some thing called rise time keeps even an MSD from multisparking at higher rpms, because there's not time for multiple rise times on the coil. Rise time is the time it takes the magnetic field around the core to form after the ground path break for the coil is reconnected after the last spark event until the gound path is broken for the next spark event (damn, that's awkward) - simply the time it takes the coil to charge up for a spark.

E coils like the stocker are quite good coils, with plenty of spark energy when sound. I'd swap plug wires, rotor, and dizzy cap, install plain vanilla NGK plugs, and replace the fuel filter first. If you pull a spark plug wire from the plug, insert a screwdriver in the plug end, and holding the INSULTATED HANDLE ONLY, hold the metal shaft of the driver about 1/4" from a good engine metal ground. When the engine is cranked, you should see a hot fat blue spark. A hot .25" spark in ambient pressure is about equal to a .039" plug gap spark in combustion chamber pressures.

If a loss of power happens in hotter weather, part of the reason is lower density air, but that fairly small amount should not be noticed without performance measuring instruments by the "normal" driver. I tend to associate hot weather loss of power with fuel supply problems OR incipient mechanical failure OR masked overheating of the engine (bad/fooled gauge). Any ignition knock on acceleration?