My check engine light had been coming on and than going off again,today engine check engine light just stayed on and vehicle just quit running tried to restart it and it would turn over but thats it.I checked for fire and none to plugs or coil,so than I unhooked battery cable than hooked it back up and it started right up.I made it home and just let it idle and i heard a clicking noise coming from the ecu unit area and vehicle shut down again.I have checked codes and two times got a 13 and 25 and the other time the needle just stayed up for about 2 minutes,just wanting to know if anybody has any idea of what I should do next.

If the codes are the same for your model as mine:

13 is the intake air sensor - located in the air filter housing as the MAF sensor unit. It's a multi-role sensor that is difficult to test accurately for all functions. There is a resistance test for at least one function, but I'd suggest substituting one from a running truck and see if anything changes.... those sensors are expensive if bought new.

25 is the barometric pressure sensor - also a part of the air flow meter sensor group.

My guess is a bad MAF sensor - try one before buying it. If you want to run the simple test, pull the connector and test with an ohmmeter between terminal 4 & 6.... resistance should be ~2.7K ohms (2700 ohms) at 68F degrees. If it passes that test, heat the sensor with a hair dryer and the resistance reading should decline as temperature increases.

If the sensor seems ok and replacing it with another doesn't help, you might need an ECU.... hope not.

[EDIT] Before you go to too much effort, make sure the sensor plug isn't loose or disconnected... check the terminals for corrosion.... plug and unplug it a few times to get a good clean connection and try it.... if that does no good, try the above.[EDIT]

Frank

A quick search confirmed what I was thinking. If the needle goes up and stays up, ECU is giving up.

Got this from the Trouble Shooting EFI

"If the ECU itself is malfunctioning, the needle will simply sweep up, and stay up."

He PMed me and said he heard a clicking sound. From previous experienced with dead ECUs, I got a clicking sound that sounded like someone clicking an ink pen fast.

If it is the ECU, you can send yours in to get rebuilt or get a rebuilt one from an auto parts store and give them yours as a core. Or they ocasionally pop up on ebay. Make sure you get the one with the same numbers on it. New dealer ones are outrageous $1500 or something. Most places will do it around $300. Advance auto ones are around $270.

Sparky <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I suspect it's the ECU also, but I wonder why it showed the 2 MAF codes. I'd still try borrowing a MAF sensor (or getting a cheap one from the junk yard) before buying an ECU. If time isn't a big issue, the ECU can be sent to one of the repair shops for testing.

Frank