Well, I successfully pulled my 22re. It's hanging on the hoist. I did not loosen the flywheel bolts while it was in the truck. Now I find my engine stand plate/adapters won't clear the flywheel and bolt up tightly. I could make some spacers but I don't think hanging it out further away fron the plate is a good idea. Any ideas on how to jam things up to loosen the flywheel bolts? I will post a pic of the stand/adapter later....maybe somone has a better idea regarding mounting to the stand.

When I had my engine out on the hoist I threaded a long bolt into one of the holes in the block that the tranny bolts to. Then I had a THICK flathead screwdriver I then had someone jam in the teeth of the flywheel holding it still. The bolts came off no problem with the breaker bar. Just kinda scary watching that screwdriver flex <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Make sure you use something stout!!

I believe you can hold the crank bolt stationary on the front of the engine to break the flywheel bolts loose...or use air impact gun.

impact is the easiest, or a good 6 point socket and hit the handle with a hammer

Easiest is to add the spacers so you can use head bolts like this. This $30 engine stand has had over 30 22R's hanging off it like this. I can remove and assemble both the flywheel and the clutch

Now that I think about it, I used this method before I had air tools and it worked fine. A Good quality 6 point 1/2 socket, 12-18" breaker bar and a 3 or 5 lb hand sledge works great.

Keep in mind that depending on what angle you attach the breaker-bar to each bolt makes a differnce in how much force is applied towards turning the crank, if you know what I mean. In other words, if you put your breaker bar on the 12oclock bolt, and have the handle facing 12 oclock(straight up), when you try to loosen it, the crank will want to turn easily. However, if you place the handle of breaker at say 9, 6 or 3 oclock, less of your impact will translate into trying to turn the crank and therefore the bolt will loosen easier.

Happy wrenchin' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

i would use a good pry bar over a thick screwdriver, or just an impact <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

gl

I've always used two wrenches at the same time. I set one with a pipe on one of the bolts I'm not going to take out yet, then use the other on the bolt I will take out. I hold the flywheel in place with the first rachet and pipe, and lightly whack loose the second rachet and bolt. I leave the second to the last bolt in, and use it for the last bolt. The second to the last bolt comes out with a light whack and no second rachet. These bolts normally have locktite on them, so the hammer whack breaks it loose.

For what it's worth, I've pulled several 22R/RE's and don't pull the flywheel until the engine is completely out. I may have also done a few instances of using a prybar in the flywheel teeth.

Thank you all for your replies/experience. As usual there is more than one way to skin a cat. I'm all good.

Wow. Seems like a lot of lever arm to me, but the proof is in the pudding. Pic of my stand below. My sleeves are quite short. From your experience, seems like adding a bunch of washers will be OK.