Okay, I posted before about my Cylinder head gasket/head problem. I wasnt sure which it was, but I knew I was getting water. I have begun the process of taking her apart.

I was following CHILTON,but I have found another (BETTER) info source.

unfortunately I dont know how to turn the Crank to align the piston of cylinder 1 is at TDC of compression stroke with crankshaft and camshaft timing marks aligned, Fig. 1.


WHAT THE HELL DOEST THAT MEAN?

do I remove the Cylinder head and THEN i can turn the crank to align,or is it suppose to be done before removal...and if so, how do you get it to turn, its just stuck..I cant move it.

I am a beginner, so I would appreciate any help you can give.

Thank you.

Thor

(Directions for CYLINDER HEAD)
1-Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain engine coolant.
2-Remove air filter, then disconnect accelerator cable.
3-Remove coolant hoses and shrouds as necessary, then disconnect breather hose.
4-Disconnect PCV hose, then the oxygen sensor connector.
5-Remove A/C compressor drive belt, then disconnect power steering breather pipe.
6-Mark and disconnect spark plug cables, then the coil wire.
7-Remove front exhaust pipe attaching nuts, then disconnect front exhaust pipe and remove gasket.
8-Remove rocket cover assembly, then the rocker cover gasket.
9-Rotate crankshaft in normal direction of rotation until piston of cylinder No. 1 is at TDC of compression stroke with crankshaft and camshaft timing marks aligned, Fig. 1.
10-Mark distributor cap and housing to facilitate installation and remove distributor.

[11-Remove camshaft sprocket bolt, washer, drive gear and spacer. Pull camshaft sprocket with timing chain out from camshaft, then place sprocket on top of camshaft sprocket holder. Do not remove belt from crankshaft sprocket. Do not rotate crankshaft or camshaft independently.]


12-Remove cylinder head attaching bolts in sequence shown, Fig. 2, then remove cylinder head and gasket.
13-Remove intake and exhaust manifolds.
14-Reverse procedure to install. Prior to installing head gasket, apply sealant, 3M No. 8660 or equivalent, to top surface of each butt joint between cylinder block and timing chain case.
15-Referring to bolt tightening sequence, Fig. 3, tighten cylinder head bolts in two steps as follows:
Torque all bolts except No. 11 to 69 ft. lbs. on a cold engine or 75 ft. lbs. on a hot engine.
Torque cylinder head to chain case cover bolts (No. 11) to 156 inch lbs.
16-Torque intake and exhaust manifold nuts and bolts to 11-14 ft. lbs.
17-Prior to installing rocker cover gasket, apply sealant, 3M No. 8660 or equivalent, to semicircular packing and .4 inch (10mm) of cylinder head on either side of semicircular packing.
18-Torque rocker cover bolts to 4-5 ft. lbs.

Edit: after reading your entire post it looks like that is for the 4cyl. I dont have any experinece with that motor. You should edit your sig. and put you vehicle info.

Is this a gen1 3.0 v6? If so, you dont really have to. But when you put the timing belt back on you will need to line up the marks. Each cam sprocket has a little dimple on one spot. There should also be a stamped line on the metal part above the sprocket. The dimples should be pointing almost all the way up. The crank pulley will have a little cut out around the outer lip, this lines up with the zero on the degree thing on the plastic timing belt cover. Hard to describe, but if you look you will see it and it will all be clear.

Also when you put the distributor back in, you have to line up the marks on that too while the timing marks are lined up. Common porblem when putting everything back on.

Try these instructions. These are the ones several of us have used to successfully complete the job. To answer your question, there is a mark on the cam sprocket that needs to be lined up with a mark on the front of the head casting at the same time the crank pully mark is aligned with the "0" timing mark on the front of the engine block. Once you have these lined up, you are at TDC on the compression stroke.

After you have the cam sprocket off, it'll only go back on the cam one way, so as long as you don't let the timing chain move on the sprocket, you'll get everything lined up pretty easy when you're ready to put it back together...

HTH

Edit: One more thing, to turn the cam/crank, you need to use a 32 or 34mm (I can't remember which) socket on the crank bolt. If you turn the crank, the timing chain will turn the cam.

I thank you guys, I am happy someone made a page with better instructions and I am totally grateful for the info you both gave me. sweet!!!!!

24 or 27mm, and I can't 'member which...

24/27...

You're probably right. I can't remember, but it was a big one...

3.0 is 22mm.

or 7/8" in SAE

Ed