I need to know the weight of 89-94 pickup box weight? Would anyone know that number of hand?

Thanks

so....i guess no one knows?

Heavy as hell, I put one on by myself. 300ish?

If you want an estimate for shipping, pull the tailgate off your '91 and weigh it. Then take that weight and multiply it by 5 or 6 times, maybe 7x(for a high estimate), the results should give you an idea.

Actually, it's not for shipping.

I am building a flatdeck (70" wide x 72" long) with steel frame & wood in the middle and also a removable aluminum frame camper that is bolted on top.

My current stock xcab with box & fiberglass topper gives me ~ 50/50 weight distribution...

I want to calculating the minimum weight the flat deck can have to maintain the weight distribution, & the maximum weight the camper can have for not overweighting the rear.

It's a 22re afterall, the whole thing has to be light/low enough to maintain 20-22mpg and uphill-dable on hwy in the mtns.

Why flat deck, because I need it for contracting work hauling stuff and the box is not up to the task.

Which also brings me to my other post question about tires.

I currently have 72" width stance (Outer tire walls) with 32x11.5 MT on 3.75bs rims. I like this because it's even stable without swaybar.

After using that setup for a year, i'd like run skinnier tires for better gas mileage/threadwear/winter conditions. Since i have 4.88, my options are 33x9.5 AT or 33x10.5 AT.

Using 33x9.5, my width stance will be down to 70" using 3.75"bs 15x8 rims & 68" with stock rims. Compared to 72" currently, is 2" or 4" are whole lot difference in vehicle handling, both hwy & off-road (no-rock crawling, just dirt/mud?)

With the camper on, is 9.5" sufficient for most of the hwy driving?

I have no idea, i think i'm being too paranoid... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

That 50/50 wieght distribution makes it nice for handling, my '90 is almost 50/50/ though it took nearly 1k lbs to do it.

I would start off by weighing the truck as you have it now, subtract the 3355 lbs (or there abouts), for your '91 stock, this would give you the weight of the gear you carry. You could still use the estinmate I gave you for finding the weight of the bed to go along with the weight you have added for an estimate to not go over. Otherwise you will probably have to contact a wrecking yard that sells oem beds, they should have an ideas of the weight if they ship them. Olympic4x4 in Washington are pretty friendly and they have one listed on their site. The site says jeeps, but they also sell Toyota parts, just search the used parts section or call them. Off hand I would say it should weigh in the neighborhood of about 400lbs. The shell probably weighs in between 250-300 lbs, so that would give you 650-700lbs plus the weight of the gear as an estimate. The only other way(and time consuming) would be to remove the shell/bed and gear and go get the truck weighed, this would give you an exact amount to work with.

I have recently built a flatbed for my '91 project rig with a similar dimensions as what you are planning(69"x71") except I have dovetailed the rear. Knowing what I have spent on steel, I would have to estimate the weight to be around 200lbs(including the 2 storage bins) in this picture.

I am planning on running a wagon type frame, which I know will run me another 50-75 lbs. I re-inforced the outer edges with steel diamond plate since it the truck is going to be a trail rig, which added a lot to the weight of the frame, rather than using heavy guage steel tubing. This way I get the strength where I need it w/o the extra weight. I also only used mesh grate for the center 48" of the flat bed(over 1"x1" tube frame). I plan to run a piece of aluminum diamond plate on a sub frame over it for a solid bottom, the aluminum will be will double as a sleeping platfom in a tent. All in all I expect the entire set-up to weigh in under 400lbs, before gear.

What size tubing have you decided to go with? You don't have to go more than .125 if you design it with enough supports. This will take you a bit longer to build, but it will be lighter. A lot of people make the mistake of using heavy steel when they could get buy with less. You might also consider using aluminum diamond plate for the flooring over wood to save on weight.

The topper you are going to make, is it going to be solid, or have canvas sides? Is the camper going to be on it all the time? If not you might consider designing the flat bed so that you can remove the lumber rack set-up for work, and drop into the lumber racks mounts the camper. This would save you from having to do it all with one flatbed.

As for the tire issue, if you want to maintain the handling you have now, I wouldn't go to a narrower/taller tire, it would be the same as if you were lifting the truck w/o running a wider rim. A tall camper on the back will definately effect handling, as well as a top loaded with lumber and ladders. If you want to go to a 33" I would suggest an AT on 15x10(3.5" back spaced) rims, running at 35psi. This is the set-up I have on my '90 and even when loaded down with gear in the top rack, I can still corner almost as hard as when the truck is empty w/o fear of tipping. With this tire and wheel combo the traed edge to edge sits at 72", outside tire to outside of tire is 75". The 33x12.50 on 15x10's will give you a good contact patch in the rain/ice/and snow, the BFG AT's will work in mud, just not the deep thick gooey type.