I've got my 22r apart and would like/need to have the head resurfaced. Was curious what an average price would be for this as I havn't looked around yet locally.

Also, when having this done i'm assuming i've got to remove everything from it, i.e. rocker assembly, cam, valves & springs, but what about the small rocker assembly guides on the intake side that stick up above the level of the top of the head? Will these be a problem for a shop? I can get a pic if needed.

Thanks for any help or advice <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

When you say rocker assembly guides, do you mean the brass peices? If so, keep those in there.

The shop I use charges 60 bucks to resurface a yota head.

-Scerb

Brass? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Guess I should clean it up a bit more, but yeah

Thanks for the info.

Another question, how long does this usually take? Asking because this is my DD, and classes don't wait for truck in pieces <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Depends on how busy the shop is.. I've had them tell me it'll be ready next day, and then I've also had them tell me the next week. I think I even got a estimate from a different shop for a month once,, but I never used that shop because of that <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

-Scerb

>>>*Most shops mount those face up, so they can align off the valve cover rail which should be square to the cam line, this is important with these engines.

The dowels wouldn't be in the way.

Typical cost in our shop is $45 currently, but the Portland area prices are the lowest in the Nation for machine work....*EB

My local guys charge $60 to tank it and surface it. 24 hour turnaround.

Don't you have to compensate with a thicker head gasket or something to make up the difference? After my second HG failure, I blew the stocker off and got one from EB. Ready to use outa the box. Well, 'cept for lappin' the valves....

My local guys charge $60 to tank it and surface it. 24 hour turnaround.

Don't you have to compensate with a thicker head gasket or something to make up the difference?

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>>>*When the total amount removed reaches .020", then the thicker head gasket should be used. We used to install Head Saver shims, but the thicker gasket has proven less problematic.

Blown twice with the stock gasket? That sounds like a tuning error or something going on. Most of the time when we see a head gasket let go, it has nothing to do with the gasket being a problem, rather the failure of the gasket is the result of something else......*EB

Oh, I know what the failure was. It involved a cranial hi-impedence air gap. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The reason I blew off the stocker was because after the second failure, getting the head straight was going to take it right to .020".

My second blown HG is a testimony to why you must go back and re-torque the head bolts. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />