|
|
Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
#762686
11/03/06 03:48 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 970
OP
Rock Warrior
|
Looking for folks opinions on rocker gaurds, maybe some pics. Many guys I know just weld them to the frame. 4Crawler makes a good argument for why bolts are more ideal (mainly, can be removed, adjusted, etc). However this is clearly just alot more work, drilling and tapping holes in a frame is no small chore when you're just a guy w/ a garage and a few tools like me. And there's always that question of the strength of bolts verses welds, I'm not that worried but some folks are dubious. I guess mostly I'm curious how many folks have later regretted welding theirs on.
Also, square tubing is easier to stand on, but round is cheaper and many folks would say look cooler too. Opinions on 1 verses the other?
With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.
Question Reality. ----------------------------- '89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#762687
11/03/06 04:54 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 882
Rock Warrior
|
I welded angle to the frame and the sliders to the angle. used square tube as it is easier to step on. I used 3/16 1.5 on my wifes truck and like it alot better then the 1/8th that I used on mine. you can kind of see them in this shot. web page
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#762688
11/03/06 05:09 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
Web Wheeler
|
Well, bolt-on installation is for the person w/ few tools. I installed my first set in the driveway, by myself, with a 12V cordless drill, 5/16" bit and a 9/16" socket in my ratchet. Took me two days, sice I needed to charge the drill battery pack overnight after doing one slider. If you have (or have access to) a welder, then welding is somewhat quicker. Usually takes me ~1 hour to weld on sliders and 90 minutes to bolt a set on, depending on how many mounting brackets. - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Docs/NerfBar_HowTo.shtmlBolt-on = bolt-off, and I have had mine off a few times over the years. First time was when I changed from 1" to 3" body lift. Removed and sold the original Americal Metal sliders I bought then made my own fit to the 3" lift. Then those new sliders have been off and on a few times, once to make a jig from them, another time to sand and repaint them (probably be doing that again this year) and one or two times working on the truck. For example when installing new spring hangers up front, was so much easier with the sliders off the frame. Sure, all the above could bhave been donw with the sliders on the truck, just would be more difficult. And sure, welded-on sliders can be cut off, I have done that before and that is a PITA. I've had both round and square tube sliders and I now have square tube: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml#BackgroundSure, round is stronger/lighter and for a roll cage, round is the only way to go. But for something like sliders, which serve as more than just protection, square tube provides some other advantages. And of course, you can weld on brackets to the frame and bolt the sliders to those. And there are the clamp-on type mounts where you fabricate each bracket to clamp around the frame and then bolt the clamps tight. In order to get a good fit with those, you need to custom fit each bracket to the frame and you are also somewhat limited in where brackets can be placed since you need all 4 sides of the frame rail clear. On the other hand, if you have round tube front and rear bumpers, then a set of square tube sliders would look out of place. My front and rear bumpers are square or rect. tubing, so square sliders fit right in.
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: 4Crawler]
#762689
11/03/06 09:15 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 970
OP
Rock Warrior
|
Thanks. I wasassuming that drilling the holes would be really difficult, given they're going into steel, and probably larger holes than that. Should've checked that install page first. Just dosn't looks like there's a lot of acceess for a drill sicne the frame is nice and tucked up under the body.
With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.
Question Reality. ----------------------------- '89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#762690
11/03/06 09:20 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,153
Web Wheeler
|
Thanks. I wasassuming that drilling the holes would be really difficult, given they're going into steel, and probably larger holes than that. Should've checked that install page first. Just dosn't looks like there's a lot of acceess for a drill sicne the frame is nice and tucked up under the body. Not that bad drilling holes, a right angle drill helps, I have one that makes the job pretty easy: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml#Mounting
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#762691
11/04/06 12:58 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 4,230
Roll Me Over
|
Last edited by OOP'S; 11/04/06 12:58 AM.
David Fritzsche 1990 Ex-Cab V-6,5-speed, with a few mods 04.5 CTD Dodge 2500 Ram--Tow Rig Roseville, CA
"Serenity through Sobriety"
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#762692
11/04/06 01:50 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,568
Roll Me Over
|
I prefer the weld/bolt option, though OOP'S set-up is a nice simple way w/o having to do anything to the frame. This is how I have made the slider mounts in the past for a few rigs. ![[Linked Image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/Snowtoy/SldrMnt2.jpg) I weld the mount to the frame, and then bolt the sliders to the mount. For X-cabs I like to mount the sliders in 4 places, and use a ldder type design. This takes a little more time but any impact to the slider will be spread over the entire slider and frame, rather than to a limited area. I also prefer using square tube, it is nice to stand on and provides a good lifting point for a hi-lift jack. ![[Linked Image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/Snowtoy/Rock_Sliders.jpg) I have had to remove my sliders a few times as well. to paint and replace the body mounts. Painting could have been done with them on the truck, but not the body mounts, if they had been weld on I would have had to cut them off.
More than tread lightly. Leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else. '90 X-cab 4.88's 33 BFG AT's, rr ARB, Headers, Ignition upgrade, cold air induction. '91 X-cab 5.29's 315's BFG MT's, rr ARB, custom bumper and flatbed
|
|
Re: Rock rails, weld vs bolt on
[Re: 4Crawler]
#762693
11/04/06 03:07 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 42
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
On my 83, I just unbolted the body mounts and used a hi-lift to raise the body enough to drill the mounting holes. I assume that would require more work on a 4Runner, tho..
Bob Garrett 83 Toy Pickup 95 FZJ80 Shawnee, KS
|
|
|
|