Just wondering if anyone had any idea what I need to do to finish getting this lower ball joint out? I have read thru the thread that WillV posted Link but mine seems a little different. I have a 1998 Honda passport 4x4. Everything was the same till I got to the lower ball joint where you un bolt it from the control arm. Mine seems to slide in between the lower part of the arm and the bolts go down through it. Another words the bolt first goes through the control arm then threw the ball joint and then threw the control arm again. I hope that makes sense. It seems that I will have to remove the whole steering knuckle with the ball joints attached then remove the ball joints on my bench. Here are a few pics
Picture 1
Picture 2
Any help would be great. Just wanted to also thank everyone for this forum. I have been reading for about a week and because of this forum I built my confidence to tackle this job. I have never changed a ball joint before. This is a great resource. If you need more pics I can take them.

The best way that I can describe it is that you've gotta create pressure between the knuckle and the ball joint. Loosen the nuts until it is almost off, but make sure to leave it on at least a few threads so that it doesn't pop loose completely. The ball joint is a tapered fit into the knuckle. All the nut does is make sure it doesn't come apart. So, with the nut backed off a ways, get a pry bar in there and create the pressure and whack on it with a hammer. It'll take a bit, but that should create enough of a shock to break it free. Then ya just unbolt it and pull it out of the arm. Hope that makes enough sense. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I did the ball joints on my '71 C10 and had to seperate them on a Subaru GL when it was time to replace the trans axles. In both instances I used a tool called a "pickle Prong". It's shaped sort of like a two pronged cooking fork. Like what you use to lift food off of a grill, and each prong is tapered, like a wedge, with a handle. Try to imagine a long chisel - pronged. Once you see one you'll know what to do. Or ask at a parts store where they usually sell them. Good Luck. Madman

I got what you mean as far as removing the ball joint but I can't even get the bolts out of the holes because the cv joint is in the way. If you look at the pic I think you can see what I mean. I am pretty sure the top will be no problem but the botton is where I am having trouble. I will look at the pic and see if you can see what I am talking about nd if not I will take another pic. Thanks for your help.

Ok I went and looked at the second picture and you can see that I removed the back bolts but the front ones won't come out because of the boot on the CV joint. If I was to try and seperate the lower ball joint it would be imposible because the ball joint plate (for lack of a better word) slips in between the bottom part of the control arm meaning there is a top and bottom of the control arm and the ball joint plate slips in between them with the bolts going through all of it. I hope you can understand what I am trying to explain. Also if you look on WillV thread you can see the difference, on his you can see the bottom of the ball joint plate because it bolts to the bottom of the control arm.

Follow the advice above.

You have to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle first. Then remove the bolts. Then pull the ball joint out of the arm.

Tighten the ball joint back to the lower control arm and seperate it in whatever manner you find to work. Pickle fork is one. You can do it with a hammer and they also make a press for ball joints.

Michael

I did the cv boots on my brothers 98 rodeo and I cant remember if it had that I know my 94 didn't. I know on the 94 it is easy. you might want to try taking the upper ball joint off and you may be able to pull the cv axle out and do it that way.

Just wondering how it will be able to move at all because it is in between the to plates of the control arm. Or will the steering arm move? If I use a pickle fork I am not seeing how it will be free to pop out of there with the bolts in. The way I see it even if it was not hooked up to the steering knuckle like it is and I tryed to use anything to pop out the taper it would still not move because it is still traped between the control arm. Do you see the part that i am talking about that is different then the willv post on removing his ball joints? You can really see how it is trapped on the 2nd picture. Please excuse me for so many questions but I have never done this before and the local tire place wanted $1300.00 to do it and I bought the parts for 325.00. Just trying to save some money and I really enjoy doing this type of stuff as long as it goes the way I want it. Thanks

As said before you need to seperate it from the knuckle first. Its much easier that way. You will also need to have the upper ball joint disconnected too in order to allow the steering knucke to move around enough to get the cv axle out of the kuckle. I did both of mine at the same time so not sure. But if I remember right that was the only way to get the kuckle to tilt out far enough to get the cv axle out where the bolts can slide out. It takes some trial and error to get it in the right position.

To get mine to seperate I had to use a torch to heat up the knuckle where the ball joint goes through, then use a GOOD pickle fork and a 3 lb sledge hammer to get it to pop loose. I destroyed a cheap pickle fork from checkers and ended up buying another one from sears that was much stronger. No amount of pullers or hammering would get mine to seperate without heating with a torch first. Once heated it came apart fairly easy.

Its kind of a stupid design. With just the lower ball joint loose, the knuckle cant drop far enough to come off of the ball joint because the cv axle hits the LCA and bolts first. You have to be able to tilt and swivel things enough to sneak the bolts past the cv axle.

Thanks alot guys I finally got them out. I have noticed that my cv boots are starting to rip but they are not all the way through yet just cracked. Should I just replace them now? Really all I would have to do is pull out the shaft right? Thanks again for all the help it made a huge difference.