When you said you had no spark on your distributor wires, do you mean that if you pull a wire off of a spark plug, and bring it close to the engine block, there is no spark when you crank the engine?
If you have no spark there, then pull the center wire out of the distributor and hold it close to the engine block. If you get no spark there, then the coil isn't firing.
The 12 volts on one aide of the coil with ignition "on" doesn't fire the coil. That only allows the field to build up. It's the ground being removed from the other side of the coil that creates the big spark.
To fire the coil manually. hook up a temporary jumper wire to the "low side" of the coil (the side opposite that owith the 12 volts). With a friend holding the center wire of the distributor close to the engine block, temporarily touch the other end of the temporary jumper wire to ground. That should create a spark. he engine doesn't have to be running, as long as the ignition switch is on. If you get a spark at that time, it means that the ignition system isn't removing and replacing the ground on the coil when it turns over. That means that either the distributor or the ignition control box is bad. (or some associated wiring). Of the two, the ignition box is more likely than the distributor to be bad.
1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
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