Ok, used a 9V battery, heard the click from the injectors, tested wires at injectors with test light (no noid avaliable) and saw a steady light on. going by what the manual says, a steady light on (with noid light) means a short. Checked wires going from ECM/COMPUTER found two out of three had continuity (were good) could not find third wire to have continuity. This electrical stuff really baffles me, friend of mine is helpin with it, but wanted to see if sounds like this could be an effective way to test, or if it might be right direction to go? to dark to continue. After two days of rain I put all wires back on, injectors, computer etc, truck fired up and ran pretty good for about 7 or 8 minutes then just shut off again. while running I noticed that one injector has a rather sloppy spray coming out of it, while the other looks to be fine. I hope this helps someone out there, cuz it is definatly confusing the heck out of me. thanks again.

tinkering around, I just tried the test light on the wires to the injectors. With the key in the on/run position (not cranking) I see that the test light stays on with one wire from each injector plug while the tester is connected to the neg. side of the battery. Is this how it should show?

That would be the ground side of the coil. The injector fires when voltage is applied to the other side.

Michael

Ok, So I'll bend over, and you can all take your turn kickin me in the a**. Yeah its fixed. turns out the culprit was the HEI Ignition / Control Module ($30.00 part from Advance Auto). It went somehow defective, and would allow the spark only for a few minutes, then shut it off, and it turns out, that without spark, the computer says no fuel allowed out of the injectors. As I said before, Me + Electronics(in cars) = No Clue! Thanks to all of you for advise offered, not just on this post, but on others problems as well!!!