i've been looking into gettig the camden supercharger for my webber 38mm carb, has anyone run this setup, or just run the super with any other carb?

i would imagine the psi being thrown into the engine determines how long your pistons last, so what would be the optimum psi do you think?--to get the most power but not have to keep replacing pistons? (also, what are the best pistons i should go with? When i do it i'm thinking of just going with LCE's master rebuild kit they use in their built 22r's)

without hijacking....
i've been thinking of putting a supercharger on my 22r for a while now and this post caught my eye. I really don't think i want to get into an engine swap, and the fuel mileage of the 4cyl. is something i'm not really wanting to get away from
thanks
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I don't know how much better you expect the milage to get with the SC but its only gonna get worse. With my 3.0 rebuild I find I'm getting a little better milage but I doubt I'll ever get close to the 3.4. Maybe tuning with MS will help things out somewhat. The truth is that the 2.4 and 3.0 aren't what you could call very efficient designs.

If you want my opinion the yota diesel swap is the way to go for sure. I wish I had done it. The cost would have been less or the same as a 3.4 swap, useable power would be about the same and milage would be better. There was a thread here about swapping a VW diesel somewhere that I thought was really cool. Perfect for a 22re equiped truck.

I've run it. I've run both the low output and high output versions.
I've run it with weber 32/36, weber 38mm, and 4.3L TBI.



That's not entirely correct. Stress on the pistons, exhaust gas temperature, Air/fuel, and detonation will determine how long your pistons last.

With the weber 38mm, you'll be rich. That protects your A/F. But you'll still be timed for a naturally aspirated motor. I believe LC recommends premium fuel and their "normal" output kit. I think it's under 5-6 psi of boost. Ask them for the dyno - torque increase is impressive, but hp is only 30 or 40.

You could run 22RTE pistons, but I can tell you that your compression will likely be too low, even with the high output version of the blower.

Personally, I'd target 8.5-8.7:1 with the high output version and plan on adjusting the timing somewhat. Maybe a MSD-6AL BTM ignition unit would be the easy way to do it on a carb'd setup. This means custom pistons.

You have two choices for pistons:
Cast or Forged. LC's "master rebuild kit" - I don't think it's any better than what Ted sells (engnbldr) and is significantly more expensive. Pistons are still cast - and not any better than what you've got now.

LC sells CP pistons exclusively when you're talking forged.
They cost just a hair under $600. At that price point, you can get a completely custom piston in any compression you want. They're a "high" silicone content piston - well, at least for forged - meaning less than .5% silicone. This allows a decent piston to wall clearance.

You can buy forged pistons for less, like around $300 from another vendor - I forget the name - see my website or PM me for details. Very low silicone, but high cylinder to wall clearance required. Technically these pistons are a little tougher, they're cheaper, but they may result in some noise when the motor is starting up and cold.. Never used anything other than CP.





The blower and 38mm carb will really hit your mileage... Probably go down by 4-8 mpg, in my experience.. The power isn't free, the blower takes significant power to turn that belt. Camden (Atkins Rotary) says that there is no impact to mileage, but that's not true.

Not to hijack, but gotta throw my 2 cents in: I definitely agree with Rauch. I'm finishing up my diesel swap right now, and I am really really happy with it so far. I have a lot of cleanup stuff to do still, but it is running and driving now. The power is way better than my 22R, and once I start tweaking the boost, that will only improve.

Since we're already "jacked" - can you detail the costs and major issues encountered with the swap?

Just to second Darin's request, Andy, I read through your writeup in the toyotadiesel.com thread in your sig and was very impressed -- sounds like a pretty thorough conversion, with great results. I don't know if you were planning on putting together a more complete writeup, but I'm sure it would be well received. Congrats on a project well done!

how much hp does the diesel put out?


dcg, did you have a jet kit for the webber when you had it; like try to lean out the amount of fuel your using? 4-8mpg is a pretty noticeable hit...

More complete? That sounds like work!

Heh heh, just kidding, I do plan on synthesizing my post on Toyotadiesel.com into something more edible so to speak, but I haven't quite finished everything up yet (such as getting additional guages installed and into Mosk's pillar pod). I'll start a thread on here once the truck is fully presentable.

But, for basic info, expect to pay around $3500 for a half cut, shipped (www.jarcoinc.com). If you're swapping into a 4cyl truck, the costs don't have to go much beyond that, but to do it right, you should do the t-belt, water pump, etc., and some of the 2L-TE engines have head problems, so budget another grand for all of that if you want to be really safe.

Nope, it's not cheap, but all told I'll probably be into mine around $6k, including the purchase of the truck (the V6 was on its last legs, so I got it cheap). If you do it for purely economical reasons, it's hard to justify. But, if you throw in the possibility of running off waste vegetable oil, then the costs look much better, not to mention the benefit of foreign oil independence. And, playing with the turbo will be fun, which as we all know is priceless.

Edit: the 2L-TE, on paper, puts out comparable numbers to the 22-RE (can't remember exact specs off hand). Most people report better performance in reality, from what I've heard anyway.

Andy, I'd love to see the write up.. Every now and then I see a deal on those 1/2 cut diesels - usually from a project someone started but didn't complete.

Can you buy parts for them with reasonable success in the US?

Bolt up to the driveline?



Aaron,
The 38mm weber is fine out of the box - it needs no jetting, it's probably a little rich (just rich enough to be safe). The 32/36 needs sigificant jetting. I index drilled my mains several sizes, which worked fine.
The Camden really wakes up with a bigger carb than the 38mm - but the only thing i know of that will bolt up is a 2bbl 500cfm weber and I hear it doesn't do well under WOT.