How much lift right off the bat would the SAS give you? i know you can go extreme, but whats the minimum? I remember looking t doing this for my s10 blazer years ago and the min lift was 6". Like I have said before a good suspension lift would be a 2-3" or 4-5" Great ideas. I am a personal fan of bolt on because I do not have a welder. There should not be to much force on the bolts the bottom of the frame is doing most of the support weight, but there is a laterial force on the bolt when the springs compress and want to push apart that will need to be taken in to consideration.

Would this set up be using the springs from the waggy or springs from a toyota or nissan?

Would the steering linkage have to be custom or could the waggy steering bolt up to the montero pitman arm? I remember on on conversion my friends and I did and there was an issue of push steering set up and pull steering set up not wanting to interchange.

Would you change the brake set up? or run extended brake lines on both sides? I thought the waggy has one line to a block then stem out to the calipers like a rear axle but I could be wrong. It has been awhile since I looked at a waggy axle.

Lots of good stuff here and you alost need a thread just on waggy axles to discuss what mods are needed, gear options, locking hub etc. The cool thing would to be able to retain the dash indicator to tell you if your axle is locked or not.

LR, I think it's a good idea. If you make detailed drawings of x-members average joe could make them or have them made locally. It would be nice to have detailed instructions with measurements posted up in the critical thrad stickey, maybe we'd see more SAS's. When we SAS PA_JERO's Montero i'll try to do a better write up than when we did LT's.

OK Dash indicator is powered from the transfer case front output spinning. SO thats really pidly, but would work anyway.

Lift is really not too much of a concern. People think my truck has some MASSIVE ammount of lift, but it really does not. It's got a 2 inch body lift, and however much is built into the SAS. I used stock wagoneer leaf springs when I did my swap at first, and kinds "built" the lift into the mounts.

As you can see here, the factory waggy springs were nice and Mushy, but almost flat. The one that is stuffing is actually inverted.

Here it is on flat ground. These are 35's btw.
Truck also has a 2 inch body lift.


Problems I see.

#1 steering. The mitsu box is in the way of the springs when you use a waggy axle. My solution was to use a GM steering box. This was no problem for me since I already had a GM power steering pump, and wanted to get rid of the doo doo Mitsubishi pump anyway.

Here you can see the GM steering box being mated to the frame. Basically I just got it from the junkyard, hooked it up to the pitman arm and found out where it wanted to live, and made mounts for it on the frame. This is a HUGE picture, and it is blurry, but here are the lower mounts for my steering box . http://alliedpaper.org/landraider/SASpics%20%285%29.JPG



#2 Brakes The D44 uses MUCH MUCH MUCH larger calipers. While you can psychically connect them to a Mitsubishi master cylinder, and it will "work"... it does not work well. What happens is the small master cylinder on the mitsubishi cannot move enough fluid to get the larger calipers to move out of their rest position, and start grabbing on the rotor. IF you pump the brakes really fast, you can get them to move out to the rotor, and it will start to stop the truck. Takes about 3 pumps to get them to start to stop the truck. This is obviously NO good. I ended up using a GM master cylinder. It was ALMOST a bolt in with a little modification to the mounting surface of the new master cylinder. You've obviously got to flare lines to fit other stuff as well.


SO a "Kit" to bolt in a set of leaf springs would work fine, but there would be some complications to it.

http://alliedpaper.org/landraider/SASpics%20%287%29.JPG
10 inch slip Woods shaft with 60 degree U-joint.
I had to modify the transmission crossmember to clear the driveshaft, but that was specific to my 4.3 swap I think. I don't know where it would be with a 2.6 drivetrain.

http://alliedpaper.org/landraider/SASpics%20%288%29.JPG
http://alliedpaper.org/landraider/SASpics%20%2814%29.JPG
Rear Spring mount. Outboard the frame.

http://alliedpaper.org/landraider/SASpics%20%2810%29.JPG
Vette master cylinder

I hope this helps.

Thats cool. I was not even thinking about the spring under set up. With the blazer it was design for a spring over which made for a huge lift. not a bad set up. i guess for the rear you just extend the shackles, add leafs, or new lift springs all togethor correct? I wonder what all comparable can be done for the coil sprung rear peeps.

Just an idea could you intergrate into your front cross memeber the nessacary bracket for the steering box swap? Then you can also clock your steering box to not have so much of an angle on the steering shaft.

O yeah what about late 80's early 90's ford bronco d44? Could it work? Those are easier to find in my area than the waggys.

As far as the master cylinder will this be a problem for the v6 or gen2 peeps? those calipers are pretty large, but never notice if the master cylinders are different.

I guess the only real way to know how much lift you truly have is to compare it to a stock one side by side or measure from flat ground to the frame with a stock size tirees. good job.

Spring under is the factory setup for wagoneers, and thats why I stayed that way. I don't think you can really make one of these spring over because of where the differential is in relation to the springs. Spring under is better for other things as well. The axle in my truck is set up identically to a wagoneer. It sits at the same angle etc.



I put in Jeep wrangler 6 inch lift springs all the way around my truck. I had to make new spring mounts in the rear also. Mitsu springs are an odd size, and I did not want to go on a goose chase for that. Coil people could just put spring spacers in.




I guess you could. I dunno. maybe.



Not very well.



the Gen1 2.6 trucks have a 7/8ths master cylinder bore, and it was not NEAR enough. the Montero sports I looked at had an 11/16ths bore, and thats not enough either. Maybe a gen 2 would work.. I dunno.



I'll measure it to my stock diesel rig.

Those are IFS (Ford TTB) 66-77 Early broncos and 78-79 are full size and solid axle.

Have you guys talked any more about this SAS kit?