Any secrets to removing the O2 sensor? I removed the PS pump and oil filter to get to mine this morning. A propane torch and PB Blaster did not help. I have a 24" breaker bar, no go. My 1/2-inch impact gun, 125 psi, and a 22-mm socket, no go...

Secondary air seems to work, FE. There are no coins in there that I have seen, and all vacuum lines are connected. We're trying later this week with a new cat, just for kicks. I don't want to jump in and try to rebuild the carb just yet, and if I can get a pass without redoing all the vac lines and scrounging the thermo valve, so much the better.

It's the Mitsu/AZ Crew way, the cheaper the better.

Thanks again,

John B.

Oow, wow RX...I had some trouble, but not that bad. I removed the tin shield on the exhaust manifold, then tried a 22mm box wrench...no go. Tried PB Blaster and a MAP torch...didn't help. Went to Auto Zone and they had a buy-and-return kit with a crow's-foot 22mm socket with a slot cut in the side for the wire. I put that on, added some extensions to get the right height to where I could get some arm on my lever and added my jack handle to make a nice long breaker. Must have been about ten different tool parts involved, but I was able to make it see things my way. It squealed on the first full turn coming out, so it was not happy. The special socket saved my bacon on that one. Took it back and got my refund.

John B.

I had to remove the O2 sensor from my 93 Sidekick. I remember employing and old trick I learned from my ex-NAVY boiler engineer father-in-law. Try impact tightening the offending nut/bolt first then try to loosen it. That has worked for me many times. I have used a box wrench and a hammer to do this with good results.

Agreed on the tightening, then loosening technique.

You can DO it, Rocks!

John B.

One thing you may want to take a look at is the advance mechanism on the dist. Most of them are sticking and worn after 20 years.

Most of the wear occurs with the advance weights in the cruise position. That's where the engine spends most of its time. If it is worn you can a lot of timing variation.

Not sure its your problem or not but it sure won't help.

Kevin

Kevin, that's sound advice, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for or how to diagnose and fix it. Can somebody point me in a direction to start?

Thanks,

John B.

A good first check is to rotate the mechanical advance by hand and let it return and see if it sticks. A timing light can be used to check for spark scatter. Run the engine to about 2700 RPM with a dial back light and see how stable the spark is.

Look for shaft wobble with the advance weights about 80 % out.

Kevin

Will do!

John B.

Passing emissions is easy, just move out of Maricopa county!
Seriously, the old trick used to be to stop at the drugstore, and put a bottle or 2 of rubbing alcohol in the tank.