I was planning on running a gen I eclipse/Talon MAS, as I hear they are more efficient for a larger turbo, and dont throw the ECU for a curve like others might. Also, if I stayed with the stock pistons, considering theyre in good shape, shold I shave the head or the block to achieve the 7.5:1 CR i'm looking for?

-Austin

you really wont notice much of a hp gain with the higher comrpession. Maybe 2 or 3 hp with a 12a. We only shaved .1 second off a quarter mile running 8:1 with a 12a at 15lbs vs a 130k mile 7:1 12a running 15lbs. But you could easily shave maybe 20 though off the head and probably reach that compression. Or was it 10? I'm not sure. An adjustable timing gear would corret your cam timing. Frankly I wouldnt bother.You will be able to get away with a little more boost off the stock compresion which will greatly make up for the tiny increase in compression.

basically the gen 1 turbo mas will let you run up to around 27lbs or somewhere around there. If you plan on running more than 14 then go for it. I'd grab the plug with it though so you can splice it into the stock wiring. Should be a writeup on starquestclub under the faq on the wiring for the 7 pin 1g mas plug.

Make sure the mas you get off the eclipse isnt hacked. A lot of 1g guys hack the mas. Another plus side to the 1gmas is you can get a cone filter

I agree with Airbats, Get yourself a big 16G and better fuel pump and run it! Oh and A Air/Fuel meter to keep an eye on your lean/Rich output. Ive seen some crappy stuff pushing your motor past its limits under boost. Total melt down..No good

I'd like to keep away from the total melt down at all costs, so I'll probably keep the 7.1:1 Cr as stock. Also, when reusing the pistons, what should I look for to make sure they are still decent? I know things like skirts, ring valleys and the tops, but anything else I might miss?

-Austin

most important thing is probably making sure they still move easily on the pins. If they are super stiff metal has gotten into the wrist pin oiling. Mainly just check for cracks around the ring lands. A little wear ont the side skirts shouldnt be an issue. I'd pay more attention to the bore size.

Also I would check that all pistons are round by using a micrometer. Make sure you keep all rod caps on the same rods either using a number punch or use a small punch and make dots for each one. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Could you tell me about your lift made by TOSTY? How much lift is it and how much did it cost... Does the body lift make the whole process easier?

Well the body lift I bought from TOASTY is better quality, He used solid ABS "quote me if im wrong on the Material" and not like the hollow crap that you get from most kits Which you cant find. He supplys the pucks and shifter extension for the stick shift if needed. You have to get the hardware. Ask him about the price because yours might be diffrent. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I can't seem to find anything or member named TOSTY, can you throw me a bone?

Go to the user list at the top of the page and look him up. And send him a PM <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />