The AC has stopped working and the blower won,t work. I looked at the compressor and the clutch not engaged but I do have some icing on one of the lines.
Does mean its lost the charge?? If so its got R12 in it and and 1 place said its 180.00 just to convert it to 134,Then he would put some in it and see if he can see the leak if not it could be a lot more. It he needs to replace the compressor it would be a lot more and it may not be available anymore.If I were at home I could find the parts.
We live In Calif.and are in PA on a RV trip.

Thanks Don and Barb

You need to troubleshoot the blower problem. It may just be a blown fuse.

If the blower doesn't work, the AC shuts down. The opposite isn't true (if the AC isn't working, the blower should still blow air). So the blower is probably your only problem.

See here for blower motor repair

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml


Also, check the fuse, and check the fan blades for obstructions. Mine had a mud dauber nest which was blocking the fan blades, causing the fuse to blow.

Well I have some good news.This evening it just started working So the AC and the fuse are good so now what?? I don't want this to happen again. I,m going to pull the motor in the AM before it gets hot and check it out and take some air to it, I,m also going to spray the connection. Where do I find the resistor??

Thanks so much!!

Don and Barb

The resistor is next to your blower fan; 2 phillips screws and a harness. Looks like little toaster coils when you remove it; it's fragile, so be careful. Your other factor is the switch contacts in the console.

Put your year/model rig in your profile so we can whittle down details for you in the future.

As far as the R12 to R134 conversion, there are a few folks here who have used other stuff to service up their R12 AC systems; mostly found on ebay. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Do not convert to 134a unless you HAVE to. Nothing is as good as R12. The system was designed for R12 and ANYTHING else will not be as efficient. The substitutes work half-arsed but the original R12 system is the best and will run longer without component failures.
Absolutely sounds like the switch/fan. Like someone said, if the fan is not running the a/c system will not work. I'm sure you noticed in the past, that unless the fan is in one of the ON positions, the a/c light is not on...

Well I checked all I could today and its still working.
How can I get the switch out and which fuse is it,my decal is gone??

Thanks for the help and you can bet the next time I leave a trip I will bring my manual.I have the 1 from the dealer when I bought my 85 truck.In fact I think I will try and buy one at an auto parts store if I can fine one.Which one should I look for??

Thanks Don and Barb

AC fuse is often in the center of the dash, passenger side beside/above the glove box.

Don, we also have some links for the '85 in the FSM sticky at the top of this section, so we're available anytime you have Internet access. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I prefer the Haynes over Chiltons, unless they've improved over recent years. The schematic drawing are usually what drive me for a selection.

x2- AC and heater fuses are on a seperate block as 4Crawler mentions.

On my 87 4Runner a/c fuse (10A), heater fuse (20A), and heater relay is behind the dash just about in the center.