I am new to IFS. I'm looking at a torn outer boot on the driver's side that is spewing grease. I checked the FSM. It looks like it unbolts from the differential flange and comes out of the front hub after removing a snap-ring in there.

I'm looking for tips on how to inspect the axle assembly before I repack it with grease and install new boots.

It looks like NAPA has all the parts in a kit for each end of the shaft with boot, clamps, grease and and a snap-ring. Anybody know if it's a good choice? They run about $17 each. I'd need two kits per side.

$17 for two boots isn't bad, I paid about $10 for one the last time I bought one at Napa.

If there isn' any gravel, dirt, etc. ,in the grease when you get the boot off, just clean it up and put new grease on it.

If you don't have the tool to clamp the metal band down, get one, it is PITA to do it w/o one. They run about $13 at napa for a good one.

Easiest way to remove them is to loosen the nuts on the diff side and smack them w/ a hammer, so you can remove them completely. Either grind the splines down or replace them w/regular bolts, it will make it a lot easier to remove the CV in the future. W/the bolts removed on the diff side and after removing the hub, you should be able to slide the CV out towards the diff. You may have to work it around a bit, but it is easier then removing the spindle. Of course if the ball joints need replacing, you might as well and tear down each side.

The first time out with these will make you swear. You can do a modification to the bolt studs if you want to press them out of the front diff flanges:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/suspensionandaxle/20removalo.pdf

For this one, you'll want a pry bar to get the CV axle to clear the bolts to drop the axle out. The cheap mod is to press out the diff bolts, grind the splines off, then reassemble with lock/nut for easy removal next time. You still want them to fit snugly thru the flange, but now they're removeable.

The inspection per the book is to put the axle in a vice, and try to twist it for play. What you're also looking for here is to dig the grease out to check for road debris, and see if the bearings (look like big marbles on the outboard side) are jacked up.

To break these down to put on boots is a BEAR. After attempting that once for a non-split boot kit, I've said screw it, and just took the axles in for a core return, which is about $110 or so.

Ask if that NAPA kit is a split boot you can wrap around and seal, or if it's the slide-on (whole) type.

Remember to give your hub body a quick cleaning and light greasing before putting back on; antiseize for the cone washers.

I'm an avid reader of Zuk's gear installs website, so I was anticipating the flange bolt modification. I'm gonna try to do the one-piece boot replacement, inner and outer and clean and inspect the whole deal. I've got a pair of shafts left over from a donor as well. I'd like to have those ready as back ups, so maybe I'll have the pleasure of doing four of these. -- Matt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

To me, it's not worth the time/effort/cost of the kits to rebuild. Shaft assemblies have gotten so cheap it's a no brainer...but that's just me. Your mileage may vary.

New ones from the parts store are $60. Plus they have a LIFETIME warranty. Break it and you can get a new one for free.

Your looking at $36 for the rebuild.

I'd get new ones.

Ya don't have to tell me twice; I'm sold on reman CV driveshafts for $56.49 each at my local NAPA. They even have new ones for $133! I wonder how good those new ones are. If they are built by an OEM in Japan or Taiwan they'd be a screamin' deal. -- Matt

I gotta think they are from China. In some brands for other applications the new shafts are about the same price as the rebuilt units. Makes me a little wary. But, the Chinese made is getting darn good for some stuff, but not everything...crap shoot...maybe the warranty is the deciding factor. ?? Anyone have experience with the cheap 'new' units?