I've been researching engine swaps since around '99 and have been all over the place 22rte to 2jz and back again and after my recent issues with my 2nd Jasper 22re(warranty replacement for the first that lasted 18k, details here ) I've decided to move forward with a Chevy 4.3 swap over the winter and cure my Jasperitis once and for all

Picked up a 4.3 out of a '97 Astro van last night with 70k on it including all accessories, harness, ECU, S10 airbox, and exhaust:


I'm going to fix the leaky headgasket on my 22re and then sell it and the w56 in running condition to fund the rest of the swap. Planning a 700r4 with AA tcase adapter to the toyota case to minimize driveline modifications and allow my fiance who's manual-deficient to drive it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Probably be a while before there's many updates but in the meantime any links/info on the swap to add to my growing bookmark list would be greatly appreciated!

After doing the 2jzgte swap with your Supra, what made you decide to go with the 4.3, price, opportunity, easier fit?

Mainly fitment, its tough to squeeze an I6 in there and keep a/c (critical for a VA boy in TX ). V6 should work a little better in a truck too (especially when towing my boat) vs a high revving I6. Price-wise the 2jz was actually cheaper, $300 vs $500 both including accessories etc. Of course all the turbo stuff added about 10x to that lol

Oh ya, also found a 700r4 needing a rebuild for $75. Figured since it would need to be partially torn apart to put in the AA tailshaft in anyways I might as well just buy one needing a rebuild and just have it redone. Still on the fence though as hard parts may add up quick if its not fixable with a simple rebuild...

What are you doing about wiring? Aren't the adapter harnesses no longer available?

I snagged a set of GM Factory manuals off ebay for $15, plan on modifying the harness myself unless I run out of time in which case I'll probably take it down to Fuel Injection Specialties in San Antonio. Fortunately the GM harnesses are pretty simple, once all the extra stuff is removed you really only need ign, power, ground, and fuel pump wires hooked up outside of the PCM connections...

Been researching a little on transmission options and I'm leaning towards keeping the w56 now. It works out to be quite a bit cheaper (vs. having a 700r4 rebuilt/modified) and would simplify things as well-no driveline mods, shifter changes, cooler lines etc. should get better mileage and have a little better power too due to less DT losses. Should have no problem holding up to 260ft-lbs based on what I've seen on Pirate...

Only downsides are exhaust clearance with the slave cylinder and the fact that my fiance (probably be wife by the time I finish haha) won't be able to drive it when I need to work on her Volvo, which is inevitable since it's got 245k on the clock <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Do the auto. The w56 isn't really strong enough, and the adapter parts are over $500, list... Plus, you'll really want to put the engine where it needs to be - where it best fits - prior to worrying about anything else.

Done ths swap a couple of times on the same truck with R150...

Brian, appreciate the input. Opinions on the w56 seem split, I wouldn't be beating on it but would be towing an 18' boat on a regular basis. I'm not a big fan of autos and I've seen w series trans hold up to 300ft-lbs but I don't know how long they lasted so that's probably something else to look into. I shopped around a little and cost-wise it works out to be about the same aside from buying the auto trans when you compare adapters and clutch components vs. all the stuff needed for an auto (shifter, cooler/lines, TV cable etc.). Guess the good thing about not having time to do any of the work for a few months is I can carefully consider my options

Think I'll go ahead and pick up the $60 700r4 I found, gotta be worth that at least as a core...

Not sure how heavy the boat is, but it will definitely add some load to the tranny.

if you want to stay 5-speed, do a R150 (I don't like the 151 as a replacement due to shifter location). Will only add the cost of the R150-tcase adapter as the rest of the components should be of similar cost. You *WILL* have to move your center console if you position the engine first. I did this on my 86 and ended up moving the console BACK about 3/4". Moved the mounting brackets and everything. Very simple, hard to tell it ws even done. And allowed me the opportunity to put the engine exactly where I wanted it to be to use a clutch fan.

I used to be a manual guy, but I'm getting lazy as hell. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />