Your not being a jerk, this is what this board is all about. Sounding off ideas and getting ideas and options based on the replies.

This discussion has been useful because it is providing some really good feedback on the approach of just disconnecting the actuator as a possible fix. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I also agree with you 100% with the risk versus reward of not fixing it the correct way. That is why I replaced the lower manifold myself.

Some people won't want to do this as a fix, or may not be able to afford to do this right away. I think it is a good discussion to consider possible options that decrease the risk of failure. Anything that reduces the risk of the butterfly's failing before a proper fix can be made is a good discussion. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Can anyone else confirm the value of these butterfly valves? Do you think the valves could be removed and shaft holes welded?

I'm not excited about spending $350 on something if it doesn't add performance.

The people that know have already posted about their value. Asking a question like that is kinda like pissing on their knowledge.

I'm not discounting the knowledge and comments. I truly appreciate everyone's input. It just seems like there isn't conclusive proof about the value of these valves. I'm just trying to have an open mind and look at all options. Don't mean to offend anyone.

I don't know that there is any conclusive evidence - without before and after dyno runs to determine actual power and torque levels, everything is pretty much conjecture and speculation. While I stand by my theory of low torque loss, I have a lot of respect for OldColt's knowledge and experience with Mitsubishi engines. He has far more experience with all types of Mitsu engines than I have - my automotive knowledge and engine building experience ranges across the board from small block Chevys to Nissans, Datsuns, Toyotas, and Mazdas, to Opels, air cooled VW's and Hondas, but my 3.5 DOHC is my first Mitsubishi engine.

I guess your best bet is to take all the suggestions and knowledge that you read here and use it to make your own decision. Better yet, get your Montero dyno tested before you do anything and then again after you do whatever repair you end up doing - you can be the first to provide the community with actual factual data.

Well stated Ryan. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I will likely start with disabling / removing the valves. And later replace the lower manifold when I do the head work (valve stems). I'll keep you guys posted.

To test the butterflys on a dyno is a bit tricky since they are only active at lower power settings. It is hard to get repeated pulls at 20% throttle without a throttle stop. Proper block of wood under the pedal works. But then an automatic transmission hides all low power details due to the way the torque converter functions.

You can plug in and unplug these on a daily or weekly basis, keep a good log of fuel consumption and go with a SOP feel.

I kind of need to get back to testing but mine is a 3.8 so my findings will be a bit different.

Asking a question that was already anwsered is far from pissing on anyones knowledge, maybe he missed it in all of the back and forth. I don't think you are trying to be rude, but it could come across that way. Lets not piss in anyone's wheaties. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Doug, I'm not sure if this was directed at me or the OP. I wasn't trying to be pissy, it just happens... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

This statement,



led me to believe that he had read all previous posts and still wanted more info from other people. I was merely stating that the people on this forum that knew, for sure, had already answered his questions. And, that noone else was going to be able to refute what they had said... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />