This should be a good start. No particular order. If you need more, let me know.

Hi,

With the last set of diagrams I see why I have power to the fuel pump relay but not the other relays. Since I have a manual trans the "white" wire going to the fuel pump relay is routed a different way than the "white" wire going to the other relays. I think I have a good idea of where the break in the connection is. The "white wire going to the other relays is the same wire up until "S111" where it branches off to the starter and engine relays. Would you have a diagram that shows the approximate location in the engine compartment of "S133" , "S107" and "S111" ??? Would you have a diagram that shows what "S133" , S107" and "S111" look like??? Would you have a diagram that shows where the other 2 "white" wires go from "S111" ??? I see where one goes to the starter relay and one goes to the engine relay but it doesn't show where the other 2 wires go to.

As for the problem with the "red/black" wire at fuse #23 I see that it is not a direct connection to the fuel pump relay. The wire comes off of fuse #23 to "S132" and then branches off with one wire going to the ECM and the other wire going to the fuel pump relay. I don't know if the ECM is getting power from fuse #23 so I am not sure where the break is yet. Would you have a diagram that shows the location of "S132" and what "S132" looks like???

When I get the electrical problems fixed I should have the trooper back on the road provided the timing repair checks out ok. Thanks again for your help.

Mike

My manual has nothing to show the actual locations of the splices other than what's depicted in the provided illustrations. Regarding "Would you have a diagram that shows where the other 2 "white" wires go from "S111" ???" Let me take a gander and I'll reply one way or the other.

For splice 111, match the top of this page, 10-1, to the bottom of 10-0.

Hi,

That last diagram that you posted confirms something for me. One on those "white" wires goes to the ignition switch which I know has power. This tells me that the break is between "S111" and the connection at the relay. I just need to go digging into the wire harness and start tracing the "white" wire back to where it still has power and that will be where the break in the connection is. At least I now know that I only have to go back a little ways.

I want to thank you for all your time in getting the diagrams to me. It really was a help to me to find the problem and where to look to find the solution. I really do appreciate the help. You have really been great.

Mike

Glad to see I've been of some help. Hope you find it. Holler if you need more.

Hi,

I found the break in the wires. It was right at the fuse box in the plug itself. Saturday the 14th I got the wires fixed. A hammer and a screwdriver and a few hours later I knocked the bad ends out of the plugs that go to the relays. I put new ends on the wires and shoved the ends back into the plugs. Now everything has power. I went to start the trooper and it wouldn't start. The starter is cranking but the engine won't start now. Last week before I fixed the wire ends we had some bad rain storms here. When I fixed the wire ends I didn't disturb anything else in the process.

I checked that the fuel pump was getting power and that it was working ok. Everything checks out ok. I even tried putting all my jumpers back on and the trooper still wouldn't start. I thought that the ignition coil was bad and I got 2 ignition coils from the junkyard to try and the trooper still wouldn't start. I am running low in fuel in the trooper but the fuel gauge is not on "E". It is above "E". Could the distributor have gotten wet???? I am runing without a gas cap on the trooper. Would the low fuel and no gas cap cause the engine not to start??? The engine won't even "try" to start. When I turn the key all it does is just crank. I did check and the ignition coil is getting power to it.

Any ideas you might have would be great. I am at a bit of a loss here. Again thanks for all the help with the wiring diagrams.

Mike

Hi,

I just added fuel to the tank with the same response. I have fuel but the trooper will still not start. I tried checking the power coming from the ignition coil and I didn't get a spark. Should the spark be a noticeable spark???? Thanks again.


Mike

Yes, the spark should be vivid and noticeable. Generally, you should be able to get a solid 1/4" arch when grounding the plug to the exhaust manifold or block. Did you check each plug for start during the starting mode or only one? Sometimes, that little spring loaded terminal loses it's "springyness" to make contact the rotor button. Have you already replaced the cap and rotor too?

Hi,

I had a brain oops. When I was checking the wires for the breaks I unplugged a plug going to the ECM. I relized that the plug and when I plugged it back in I got a spark at the ignition coil. I tried to start the trooper and it wouldn't start. I reconnected my jumpers and the trooper started. I tried to eliminate the jumpers one relay at a time. As I eliminiated the jumpers the trooper started without the jumpers. I didn't do anything but put the relays back in. The trooper did start but the "panel" lights didn't light up with the key in the "on" position. I had a spare "engine" relay from my 87 trooper that I changed out and the trooper started with the "panel" lights coming on. I don't know why. I took the trooper for a spin on residental streets and the trooper ran great. It even idled great. I got on the the main road and drove about 1/2 mile and the trooper died on me. It just cut out. It wouldn't start back. I had to have the trooper towed home. Could the "panel" lights be the causing the problem??? Could there be a short here???

Thanks for your help.

Mike