Ok, that's not really the question. The question requires a bit of a story...

The a week ago, my brakes started squealing a bit. The other day, they wouldn't stop even when I let off. To some extent, I started to freak out because I did not want to deal with bearings at the moment. Pulled the rear brakes and found them worn, but not at the end of life, the squeaking was that they were some how full of rocks (apparently they have little holes in the middle of the pads, the rocks got in there somehow). Anyway, should be fine, right? No... the fronts still squeaked.

I pulled the fronts and discovered they have been pad slapped for probably the entire life of the truck. The rotors were at least 4.4mm THINNER than the throwaway point (25.4mm for an SR in case you were wondering). Crap <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> So I did the search, I read the FSM, I looked things up and got to work. Yes it was a bit annoying, particularly since yesterday I could not find anywhere that had a GM axle nut socket as has been suggested before, much less a Mitsu one. I choose to fab up something and attempted to fake it when pre-loading the bearings. They felt normal (I think, haven't done a Mitsu before) when I had the rotor/hub combo back on, so I put in the new pads and put the wheel on. I should have checked it after putting the pads on too just to be sure, but oh well...

Zoom to the first drive this morning... it sort of feels like driving in mud. Not too bad mind you, just I don't seem to go quite as quick if I let of the brake and idle forward, and when I am accelerating from the light, it seems like I need an extra 500rpm or so to accelerate at a normal rate. I think the grease I re-packed the bearings with was fine. It said it was approved for bearings in all Honda, Toyota and Mitsubishis. Did I perhaps get the nut too tight? My makeshift tool didn't allow me to use my torque wrench so I had to estimate it. Could it be the brakes just riding tight till they settle in? I haven't had that happen with any other brake job I have done. There is no noise, and everything feels smooth as silk now, just really slow. Should I pull it apart right now and re-do everything again, or is it safe to let it have a couple hundred miles and see if it settles in? Am I just a picky, over sensitive idiot? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> All opinions appreciated! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

More than likely, you either tightened the rear brakes too much or you over tightened the front axle nuts.

I wouldn't drive it much or severe heat damage can occur..... but, a very short drive should tell you whether the problem is in the front or rear. Just feel the hub and see what's hot.

If you think it's the front, remove the front wheel and brake caliper, wrap a string around the wheel studs. Attach a fishing scale to the string and pull so the hub rotates. There should be no more than 4 lbs showing on the scale. If you have an educated and calibrated pinky finger, you should be able to check it that way as well - just tug on one of the studs to turn the hub - it should be fairly easy to move, yet have some resistance.

Frank

Did you clean and grease the caliper sliding pins? The caliper needs to be free to move side to side in order to center itself on the rotor, if it's binding and can't center itself then you will have a brake pad making contact with the rotor at all times, wearing that pad prematurely and causing the dragging that you're feeling. The pins and pin bores need to be thoroughly cleaned and fresh high-temp grease applied whenever you do your brakes.

Does it want or not what to roll out of gear ...

Jack each corner up and see how it feels should not be to tight but not lose ether .. To tight it could cook on you ... Start there ...

Consensus says... Yes I am an idiot. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

I am kidding of course and I definitely appreciate the feedback.
Haztoys, both corners seemed to feel good last night, but it's very possible I was too tired to think clearly.

Ryan, I did grease the rails very well because it was the only way to get them to move far enough to fit with the new rotors. The old ones were BAD. Maybe I should bring them to show next weekend. The brake move much cleaner now so that ladders one choice...

Frank, I only changed the front brakes so far... Somehow the rears weren't nearly as bad as the fronts. I am betting at this point the axel nuts are too tight. Unfortunately I has to go in a little trip to my daughters' recital and I will have to drive it home again (about 15 miles round trip). Hopefully that does not damage them. On the drive over, it did feel like it loosened a little, but at higher speeds, there was a bit more noise than normal. No squealing or grinding, but just an... I don't know how to describe, an industrial spinning noise. I don't have a fish scale or anything like one, but I should be fine loosening just to before the point where there is any play right?

If you can get your Monty stopped and "not" use the brakes ...E-brake or a up hill jump out and feel the hub ..See if its getting hot ...If you use your brakes ..The brakes will heat the hub and wreck your test ...

Well... a few weird typos in my last post, but not too bad since I was using my new phone to read responses and post. I made the second half of my 14 mile drive and let things cool a bit, then opened things back up tonight. To answer the title's question, yes... yes I am an idiot. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Two things: first, I backed the pressure off exactly one hole on the lock washer. Just one 20th or a turn or less and it was night and day. Second, I had to replace one of the two screws that hold the lock washer in place on the driver's side. It was badly stripped, I am betting that's why the rotors were never machined in the life of the truck, someone screwed it up early on and no one wanted the job of removing it. I made absolutely certain to get the same length, the same diameter/thread.. same button head.... almost. Turns out that head was just a few thousandths wider than the stock screw and looks as though it was rubbing on the inside of the hub. I clamped it in my drill chuck and ran it against a sanding block for a bit, and voila! no more rubbing, no more "rotating" sound, and no more feeling like I am powering out of the mud hole. Crazy that so little difference in feel of my hand can make such a huge difference on the road. Thank you all very much though. It definitely helps to have other minds feel around a bit and push me to not give up early. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />