The Ausie locker function is basically the same as a Detroit Locker, or Lockright locker. It will always try to drive the wheel that is moving slowest. If one of the wheels is moving faster, it will ratchet that wheel. In a steering axle, this means the inside wheel on a turn will be driving, the outer ratcheting. This gives a little bit of "Feedback while on dirt roads in 4wd. On a street in 4wd, it will be trying to pull the wheel straight.

If you leave the hubs locked, but the t-case is in 2wd, you may hear some SLIGHT ratcheting around corners, but it won't bind like an engaged ARB, "lincoln locker" or Spool would.

I had customers with Jeep XJ's and TJ's with lockrights in the front diff that drove them in 2wd on the street with no unlocking hubs, with little noticable effects.

I once broke a rear Warn hub on my CJ-8 and had to drive over 100 miles on the front axle with a Lockright in it. It wasn't much fun as the axle that locked in tried to pull me in that direction, and getting on and off the gas shifted the direction it wanted to pull. It was lot's o' fun getting in and out of a gas station with it, too! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

AWD would be unuseable, a Aussie locker would not be a good choice.

I sure wish thay would make an Aussie Locker for the front 4 cylinder 7.5" diff!

So there shouldn't be any issues driving in snow on the highway locked in 4 hi??

Highway 4WD in snow and ice can be dicey no matter what locker is in the front. On a slick patch, a locked front loses all steering - not a good thing. That's why some prefer selectable lockers so they can be switched on and off as needed.

I haven't yet tried the Aussie Locker in snow, but I suspect it would not allow much steering on ice or hardpack slick snow. For driving any distance in snow on the highway, I would think it would be better to engage only one side in front so there is some differential action and some extra traction.... in effect, 3WD.

Others who live in snow country will know more than I do about how to negotiate the slick stuff with front lockers.

Here in SC, we get a lot of black ice, which is bad no matter what, but is generally negotiated better with open differentials at both ends.... particularly in a SWB. But no matter what differentials, highway snow and ice driving requires some skill, a light foot and sense enough to slow down.

Frank

I am an extremely avid snowboarder so I have a lot of experience driving in snow, I'm very careful, but adding another element to the equation is a little scary for me'. Does the locker automatically engage when the hubs are locked or only when a tire begins to lose traction? The Monty handles nicely in snow with the open front diff, hopefully someone with experience driving in snow with an Aussie front locker will chime in..

If the risk outgains the reward with an Aussie, what are my options with selectable lockers?

ARB is the only selectable locker available.

An Aussie Locker works about the same as a Detroit Locker or Lock-Right. It is locked inside the differential full-time. Nothing turns until 4WD is engaged - then both axles turn. When the hubs are engaged, both wheels are driven full-time and at the same rate. When resistance from turning rate differential (bind) is encountered, the locking mechanism ratchets to allow the outside wheel to turn at a faster rate than the inside wheel. The problem in ice or very slick hardpack is that you may not have enough traction to make the locker ratchet - so you'll have the same result as a fully engaged ARB or spool - no steering control. The ARB does let you disengage without getting out of the truck, but trying to use one in 4WD-Hi at speed would be foolish in icy conditions. You can't engage and disengage fast enough to recover steering control. From what some of the forum members here have said, even an LSD front is very tricky on snow and ice on the highway. You just have to slow down and be prepared for the unpredictable.

I think you'll find that any locker is good in deep snow, but not so good on icy roads. The 3WD compromise helps with steering, but may pull to one side or the other, depending on which hub is engaged.

AWD setups that transfer power front/back and side/side are much more desirable on the highway slick stuff.

Frank

what is the model number for the one that fits the GEN1? I went to the website and there does not show anything older than 98.

That's the one - XD-94514. It fits the front of the Gen1 3.0L V6.

Frank