Quote
It is not that hard of a job.

Well, provided you have proper tools.

I have found a heavy vise to be very helpful in holding the driveshaft.

When it comes to the axles, it is a little more of an issue to replace.

But, a socket that fits within the u-joint can be used to pound out the old ones. Squirt a lot of WD-40 or some other rust breaking solution to make it easier.


X2 on this... To remove the axle shafts to get to the ujoints just remove the brake calipers, rotors, 36mm axle hub nut, and the 3 bolts holding each hub (use 13mm 12 point socket as NO other socket will work or you risk stripping the bolts head and then you'll REALLY have a "fun" time removing these) to the knuckle, the hubs should just slide off depending on how much rust and road grime has collected on your axle, if not a quick whack with a hammer should knock them off, or you can just rent one of those pullers from an autozone or kragens/o'reillys... make sure you spray all of these bolts down a day or two before with PB Blaster/WD40 or whatever you use to help loosen any rusty stuck on parts... replacement is just backwards of what I have described, each side should take about 30mins to 1 hour all depending on if you have all the tools and have no set backs (rusty parts), oh and I found that a 3/4" or 19mm socket works best to pound out the joints after you remove the c-clips holding the caps to the shafts... Hope this helps. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Fred R.


97 ZJ, 5" Long Arm Lift, Beadlocked 35's, 231/D300 Doubler, Locked Front & Rear (Narrowed HP D44 & F8.8), ARB Bull Bar & 9K winch, 1-Ton Hydro-assist steering, "Custom" body work and some other goodies... PICS