An option which most folks choose is to:

1. Purchase a quality head gasket kit (Factory and Fel-Pro are fine)
2. Take the head to a machine shop and have them pressure test for cracks and other anomalies (leave the innards in place and let them check the entire assembly, cleanup (surface) the mating surface, etc. They will also tank (clean) it and most machine shops adjust the valves before returning it to the customer.
3. Most folks choose to replace the timing belt and water pump at the stage due to the labor involved to pull the head

An exception to this is if you happen to have one of the early series heads. The stamp is on the firewall end of the head where the 4ZE1 stamp is located. Castings #1 and #2 are frowned upon and #3 is "arguable". I have a #3, had the head worked 2 years ago and have had no issues with it.

And, as you know, you have the option of a new aftermarket head, a rebuild, or a later model salvage head. I personally would not install a used head without having it checked at a machine shop.