if it's the ignitor that's mounted on the fender that you're talking about, you won't need to replace it. providing your truck's still running, that is.

Well I ordered a 31-731 distributor from Advance. They had a $20 off coupon that I took advantage of. Shipped to me it was $115. Not bad I guess. Should be here by the end of the week or early next week. Will have to send my core back in though, to receive the $30 core charge back. Maybe I'll just keep it, we'll see.

You need to keep that core until you get the other one. I've had them come across the counter without the o-ring, grommet, and a couple other little bits. Wait for it to show up before firing off your core.

If salvaging anything off the old one instead, the roll pin and the gear on the shaft are good aw-s** parts to keep, as I don't think you can order them by themselves these days.

thanks for the tips <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Got the reman dist and installed it, fixed the advance problem and I'm sure there was a leak too that got fixed. Still have a mild backfire and sometimes hard starting when the engine is olny slightly warmed up. Probably need to start a new thread for that.

how's your idle set? sometimes you can have run-on if it's too high. incorrect timing (retarded) can do it, too.

there the AAP diaphragm that can cause starting problems, as I understand. part of the $30 carb rebuild kit, I think.

on my first Toyota truck, the carb was a mess. difficult to start, and ran like dookie. it was the first one I ever rebuilt. it wasn't too difficult; I did it over a weekend. disassembled on Saturday, soaked the three parts of the carb body, reassembled on Sunday, ALTHOUGH, I should have soaked each part of the carb body overnight for better cleaning; that would have meant three nights. anyway, it ran much better afterward. better throttle response, easy starting. not sure exactly what the problem(s) was(were). I think I spent like $60 on materials/tools:

• a mini pliers set from Sears; $30 (I'd prob go Harbor Freight now; $10)
  
  
• can of parts soak; ~$15, iirc? [EDIT: now ~$25] (it comes in a paint can w/a small metal basket inside)
  
  
• high tack sealant; it's fuel resistant (I didn't have this then, but I'd definitely use it now. vacuum leaks are the enemy of a smooth idle)
  
  

TIPS:
1. take photos of the throttle & choke linkage on the side of the carb -- I didn't, and couldn't, for the life of me, figure out how to get it back together. it's tricky. I ended up installing a manual choke (this was before the forums were around).

2. consider buying a new heater spacer(? I think that's what it's called?) for installing between the carb base & manifold. the one you have will have gaskets bonded to it, and it's a pain to get them off without cutting/scoring the spacer. I think they're only $18 new from Toyota.

3. use the high tack sealant on all the gaskets. do not use RTV; it doesn't stand up to the fuel.