Little Update, with a full carb cleaning & seal replacement, verified and installed new vacuum lines, oil & filter change, MSD ignition (igniter was bad), cleaned the old spark plugs, new fuel pump and new battery; the truck that has been sitting in a field for five years started up.

On to the bad and the part I need advice on. It runs/idles really rough. I know I didnÆt change the plugs but I did clean them up, gapped and tested each one for spark. While the motor is running, thereÆs a continuous stream of smoke (light blue and smelled like burning oil) that came out of the top valve cover from a hole forward of the PCV valve (I donÆt have the air filter assembly installed on the truck). I had the same light blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I capped off the port on the top of the valve cover where the smoke was coming out and it did help the idle a little bit. I checked the block and I have oil leaking from where the distributor meets the head, the top quarter of each side of the timing gear cover and the top of the timing gear cover where it meets the head. Oil and Radiator fluid looked fine, no mixing that I could tell with 5min of run time.

IÆm planning to pull the head to replace all the rubber seals and anything else worn (hopefully, clearing up the blue smoke issue). IÆm also going to get a timing chain kit and get all of that replaced. I guess IÆm just looking for a second opinion on if I should install new rings on the pistons (even if I don't see anything strange on the cylinder walls), and just rebuild the whole damn thing out right.I hear these engines are pretty indestructible and I ôfeelö good about the low end being in good shape, but I thought IÆd ask. I talked with the previous owners and the oil changes were done regularly and everything except the starter and alternator is factory from 1980. Truck died due to the igniter going out and was parked.

I plan on getting my valve train parts from LC engineering, good choice or should I go somewhere else? I plan on keeping everything stock or one step up just for reliability. Oh, what was the stock redline on a 1980 20R motor? If anyone has any advice or tips on what I should do while IÆm tearing down the motor please let me know. Again, Thanks for the help in advance.

A cup of ATF in the oil can do wonders for reconditioning seals and loosening up sticky rings.

What is the mileage on the odometer? What are the compression numbers? Any change after doing a valve adjustment? If the comp numbers are good, no knock, the bottom end(other than any seals) should be good. If comp numbers are low, might as well rebuild the bottom end, replace w/22r(more hp), build a hybrid using the 22r block and 20r head, or go w/a 22r(e) for fuel injection.

Redline should be about 5500rpms, might be a little less. Most Toyota engines are just coming into their power band at 2500rpms, w/optimal shifting point between 3500-4k rpms. IME w/a stock engine/exhaust, pushing the engine past 4500rpms doesn't provide much more usable power.

What is the mileage on the odometer? What are the compression numbers? What did the plugs look like?

If compression is good and it still smokes, the oil rings are stuck. There is something you can do about that.

I thank everyone for the replies; I've been getting over the flu and haven't been able to do much.

Odometer on the truck reads 80,000mi.

With all plugs out and engine cold:
#1-120psi, #2-115psi, #3-120psi, #4-125psi

All plugs are dry but covered in black soot/carbon (they were cleaned before the 10min of run time) and smell of oil.

I have added a cup of ATF fluid to the engine oil and started the truck for another 30 seconds to hopefully recondition some of the seals as mentioned in a post.

What do I need to do if the oil rings are stuck? And how would I stop the oil leak around the top of the timing chain cover?

I really appreciate everyoneÆs help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

black soot means too much fuel.

To un-stick the oil rings....

Block off the radiator
Run the engine until the engine is running HOT.
Pour a half can of tranny fluid down the Carb. while the engine is running.
This can be done but you need a lot of throttle and pour slowly.

The last half of the can Hold the throttle wide open and dump it in.
Let the engine set for 48 hours.
Clean the plugs and restart the engine.

It is going to smoke like crazy for a little while until the extra Tranny. fluid is burned off.

Replace the plugs and drive the truck.
The ATF will break down the carbon and clean out the gunk clogging the oil rings, and let them work like they use too.