I have a 1995 Montero SR that I am in the process of converting to Diesel installing a 4M40 with transmission from a JDM. (see:http://pachamamas.org/monjero) Before I bought the car I had read about the unmarked neutral in 80's monteros and found a spot in the 4H-4L shift that allowed me to roll the car in park. This is an automatic or it would not be an issue. As I started thinking about it more and noticed it was "center-locked" during this shift point I started to wonder if that would be a problem for long distance flat towing (all four wheels on the ground with a tow bar). I have been studying the transmission service manual to try and figure out if there should be another neutral point between 2H and AWD where it looks like just a synchronizer exists. Since I currently have the motor/trans out and getting ready to swap my transfer case over to the diesel transmission (to get the LHD shifter location) there is no way to test it and feel for the location. I would like to know if there is any modification I can do to enable a neutral detent or shifter position lock device. Hope someone can help. Many Thanks, CH

Why not put the transmisson in neutral? Or if you really worried, removed the driveshafts and plug the holes to minimize fluid lose and then you are good to roll. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

You would have to file a new detent spot in the shift rail at the sweet spot for neutral. The m/t gen1 trucks had one, IIRC, but you'll have to do some tear down to locate your spot. Try taking a look at the manual on tcase removal and teardown to locate the right rail and the detent ball location required. I'd get the rail in the sweet spot, pull the detent ball, spring, and cover, and use a punch to mark the rail at that location.

The biggest question I had was IF there was a sweet spot between 2WD and AWD. I was not planning to open the t-case for this first install, I was going to build a plate to slide in and hold the lever in place. I like this idea though, and may try it out on the shift rails for the RHD t-case and see if it works. I am still trying to wrap my head around how it all works with the center diff lock, viscous coupling, synchronizers, counter shaft, chain drive, etc etc etc. In the diagrams looked like the cone synchronizer on the 2WD-AWD gears did not have an opportunity for neutral or it would wear out the syncro unless it was perfect, there was just a tiny spec on that gap. The 4H-4L shift syncro looks more conventional and I think this explains why I did not feel any neutral point on that 2H-AWD shift with the car in park. Yes I would have the tranny in neutral and if there is no problem towing an automatic this way at up to 70mph for thousands of miles please let me know, but generally this is not at all good for automatics...

Thanks for the input.
CH

For a long haul, just drain the transfer case fluid and pull the drive shafts. It'll take minutes.

John B.

I once towed a 1973 Plymouth with a torqueflite from Hobbs NM to B'ham AL with a towbar (I actually only towed it to Jackson MS before it pulled out to pass, and then I towed a Ford pu the trst of the way). I just let it idle all the way back....

I would not trust a plate on the shifter, myself. I'd spend 20 minutes with a drain pan and a 12mm and 14mm wrench under the truck pulling the driveshafts, or just pull the rear and put the tcase in 2hi.

Well... As far as I know, I am the only person who has ever actually done this mod. I put a detent in the rail on my 2.6 turbo setup and ran it that way before I upgraded to a 4.3. It worked fine, BUT it does NOT unlock the front from the read driveshaft. It only uncouples the transmission from the transfer case.

It'd prob be OK because the rear wheels would not be driving anything in the auto trans and the front hubs would be unlocked. The biggest danger is turning the auto trans with no lubrication from it's engine driven pump.


I flat tow my diesel rig with the hubs unlocked, and the rear shaft pulled, and ratchet strapped up to the exhaust system. Takes just a few mins with a 12, and 10 mm wrench. Way Way easy to do.

Thanks for all the input. I am wondering if the hubs would be unlocked in a 95 SR. Sorry I don't yet know how these work, and haven't taken the time to look it up since reading your post, but they are automatic and I thought they were air or vacuum driven. Would they not lock if the motor is off while shifting from say 2h up to 4hc and then the neutral spot? I'm thinking yes... If this is the case, then I agree all good. I'm guessing the '87 has manual locking front hubs. How bad would it be to drag it with the center locked if the hubs were locked?...I'm thinking not too bad, but LOTS of extra wear on the t-case chain drive. Is there a way to prevent the automatic front hubs from locking, like disconnect a hose or switch?

Unbolting the rear driveshaft and strapping it up will be an option, I realize 2-5-min under the car, 14mm socket and 15mm wrench if I remember correctly. This would be OK, and the REMCO driveshaft disconnect is a possibility, for like $700+ my wife could unhitch and drive to the store or whatever. I'm thinking this will be my stop-gap. Once parked at destination or for emergencies it is fine, just no quick side-trips on the way.

Please e-mail any photos of that neutral detent mod if you have any. It might be great to do while everything is out.

Many Thanks,
CH

Did you replace the drive flanges with auto hubs? A 95 SR would not have auto hubs from the factory. It would have CAD, central axle disconnect, which is vacuum operated. And the 87 would have auto hubs unless someone swapped it over to manuals.

No, looks like it has CAD. Thanks for the input. Looked closely again at the manual and 2-4H synchro specs a 0.3 mm gap...so I doubt a neutral detent is possible on the 'active track'. Ran into possible issue with the shifter position today. Since it will now be 2.75" back, not sure if it will fit in through the floor. The shifter on the RHD case has a forward overlap of about 2". I looked around online for maybe a 4cyl case and did see a Montero sport t-case that had a similar overlap of the shifter, but it looked shorter and did not have the same # of sensors. Anyone know the differences in t-cases? Could I use a different type? Leaning toward cutting larger hole in the floor if necessary...Current hole is huge 3" wide by 5-6"long and shifter was toward the front.