hey y'all it's been a while...
I replaced the clutch, flywheel and bearings with a marlin crawler kit for my runner. When the pedal is not depressed the output flange spins pretty good without the truck being in gear, and the thing will go into 1st ok but it wants to GO with the clutch pedal to the floor. also when trying to shift into reverse, it grinds bad and also wants to GO when the clutch is pushed in. I double checked again today to see if I somehow managed to install the clutch disc backwards... nope, it's good. I replaced the slave and bled it pretty good I think. the fluid was clear by the time I tightened the bleeder screw... I'm at a loss. Also I adjusted the clutch master shaft to try to get a longer stroke... nope, still havin issues. and now I think i cracked the pedal bracket so i'm gonna have to tear out and weld and reinforce <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> wtf!? any help would really be appreciated.

Inspect the bracket first and tell us what you find. I was thinking backward plate too.

it's definitely tweaked. there are a lot of alarm and aftermarket excess wires stuffed under there, but I could tell before i messed with the clutch mc shaft that it wasn't tweaked before, so i don't think my problems are related to that although i'm sure it's not going to help.

are you sure you have the t/o bearing hub "attached" propperly ? not to much that can go wrong there , other the dics in backwards or fork in backwards


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uh like with the spring clip? i think so. is stays on the fork <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> fork in backward? No. didn't remove totally. the slave pushrod sits in the pit. disc is right.. maybe re- bleed the line? i just gravity bled it does that matter?

Maybe the master cylinder is going out. is the slave OEM? marlincrawler.com and trail-gear.com sell OEM ones for reasonable prices...

yeah .. although gravety bleading is the norm .. pressure bleading is recommended


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i have a spare oem master. and I have the original slave. it seemed fine to me. how can i tell the m.c. is going out?
heh heh... the clutch wont disengage and nothing else seems to fix the problem? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

That is a known problem on the later Toyotas (90-95 runners, 89-95 pickups) and it will give you the exact symptoms that you described. You can buy a new, redisigned one from Toyota. The easiest way to change it, take the dash out. It is not that hard, I had to do it when I replaced the top on my 90 from when I flopped it in Moab this year.

ok so today i'm going to tear the dash open and pull the clutch pedal bracket, weld it together, reinforce it and replace the clutch m.c. anyone know how much stroke I should be getting out of the system at the slave pushrod? I looked through the fsm and couldn't get anything but the pedal travel...